es。 Not until reaching Winslow did she realize how near she was to her journey's end and that she would arrive at Flagstaff after dark。 She grew conscious of nervousness。 Suppose Flagstaff were like these other queer little towns！
Not only once； but several times before the train slowed down for her destination did Carley wish she had sent Glenn word to meet her。 And when； presently； she found herself standing out in the dark； cold； windy night before a dim…lit railroad station she more than regretted her decision to surprise Glenn。 But that was too late and she must make the best of her poor judgment。
Men were passing to and fro on the platform； some of whom appeared to be very dark of skin and eye； and were probably Mexicans。 At length an expressman approached Carley； soliciting patronage。 He took her bags and； depositing them in a wagon； he pointed up the wide street： 〃One block up an' turn。 Hotel Wetherford。〃 Then he drove off。 Carley followed； carrying her small satchel。 A cold wind； driving the dust； stung her face as she crossed the street to a high sidewalk that extended along the block。 There were lights in the stores and on the corners； yet she seemed impressed by a dark； cold； windy bigness。 Many people； mostly men； were passing up and down； and there were motor cars everywhere。 No one paid any attention to her。 Gaining the corner of the block； she turned； and was relieved to see the hotel sign。 As she entered the lobby a clicking of pool balls and the discordant rasp of a phonograph assailed her ears。 The expressman set down her bags and left Carley standing there。 The clerk or proprietor was talking from behind his desk to several men； and there were loungers in the lobby。 The air was thick with tobacco smoke。 No one paid any attention to Carley until at length she stepped up to the desk and interrupted the conversation there。
〃Is this a hotel？〃 she queried； brusquely。
The shirt…sleeved individual leisurely turned and replied； 〃Yes； ma'am。〃
And Carley said： 〃No one would recognize it by the courtesy shown。 I have been standing here waiting to register。〃
With the same leisurely case and a cool； laconic stare the clerk turned the book toward her。 〃Reckon people round here ask for what they want。〃
Carley made no further comment。 She assuredly recognized that what she had been accustomed to could not be expected out here。 What she most wished to do at the moment was to get close to the big open grate where a cheery red… and…gold fire cracked。 It was necessary； however； to follow the clerk。 He assigned her to a small drab room which contained a bed； a bureau； and a stationary washstand with one spigot。 There was also a chair。 While Carley removed her coat and hat the clerk went downstairs for the rest of her luggage。 Upon his return Carley learned that a stage left the hotel for Oak Creek Canyon at nine o'clock next morning。 And this cheered her so much that she faced the strange sense of loneliness and discomfort with something of fortitude。 There was no heat in the room； and no hot water。 When Carley squeezed the spigot handle there burst forth a torrent of water that spouted up out of the washbasin to deluge her。 It was colder than any ice water she had ever felt。 It was piercingly cold。 Hard upon the surprise and shock Carley suffered a flash of temper。 But then the humor of it struck her and she had to laugh。
〃Serves you rightyou spoiled doll of luxury！〃 she mocked。 〃This is out West。 Shiver and wait on yourself！〃
Never before had she undressed so swiftly nor felt grateful for thick woollen blankets on a hard bed。 Gradually she grew warm。 The blackness； too； seemed rather comforting。
〃I'm only twenty miles from Glenn；〃 she whispered。 〃How strange！ I wonder will he be glad。〃 She felt a sweet； glowing assurance of that。 Sleep did not come readily。 Excitement had laid hold of her nerves； and for a long time she lay awake。 After a while the chug of motor cars； the click of pool balls； the murmur of low voices all ceased。 Then she heard a sound of wind outside； an intermittent； low moaning； new to her ears； and somehow pleasant。 Another sound greeted herthe musical clanging of a clock that struck the quarters of the hour。 Some time late sleep claimed her。
Upon awakening she found she had overslept； necessitating haste upon her part。 As to that； the temperature of the room did not admit of leisurely dressing。 She had no adequate name for the feeling of the water。 And her fingers grew so numb that she made what she considered a disgraceful matter of her attire。
Downstairs in the lobby another cheerful red fire burned in the grate。 How perfectly satisfying was an open fireplace！ She thrust her numb hands almost into the blaze； and simply shook with the tingling pain that slowly warmed out of them。 The lobby was deserted。 A sign directed her to a dining room in the basement； where of the ham and eggs and strong coffee she managed to partake a little。 Then she went upstairs into the lobby and out into the street。
A cold； piercing air seemed to blow right through her。 Walking to the near corner； she paused to look around。 Down the main street flowed a leisurely stream of pedestrians； horses； cars； extending between two blocks of low buildings。 Across from where she stood lay a vacant lot； beyond which began a line of neat； oddly constructed houses； evidently residences of the town。 And then lifting her gaze； instinctively drawn by something obstructing the sky line； she was suddenly struck with surprise and delight。
〃Oh！ how perfectly splendid！〃 she burst out。
Two magnificent mountains loomed right over her； sloping up with majestic sweep of green and black timber； to a ragged tree…fringed snow area that swept up cleaner and whiter； at last to lift pure glistening peaks； noble and sharp； and sunrise…flushed against the blue。
Carley had climbed Mont Blanc and she had seen the Matterhorn； but they had never struck such amaze and admiration from her as these twin peaks of her native land。
〃What mountains are those？〃 she asked a passer…by。
〃San Francisco Peaks； ma'am；〃 replied the man。
〃Why； they can't be over a mile away！〃 she said。
〃Eighteen miles； ma'am；〃 he returned； with a grin。 〃Shore this Arizonie air is deceivin'。〃
〃How strange；〃 murmured Carley。 〃It's not that way in the Adirondacks。〃
She was still gazing upward when a man approached her and said the stage for Oak Creek Canyon would soon be ready to start； and he wanted to know if her baggage was ready。 Carley hurried back to her room to pack。
She had expected the stage would be a motor bus； or at least a large touring car； but it turned out to be a two…seated vehicle drawn by a team of ragged horses。 The driver was a little wizen…faced man of doubtful years； and he did not appear obviously susceptible to the importance of his passenger。 There was considerable freight to be hauled； besides Carley's luggage； but evidently she was the only passenger。
〃Reckon it's goin' to be a bad day；〃 said the driver。 〃These April days high up on the desert are windy an' cold。 Mebbe it'll snow； too。 Them clouds hangin' around the peaks ain't very promisin'。 Now； miss； haven't you a heavier coat or somethin'？〃
〃No； I have not；〃 replied Carley。 〃I'll have to stand it。 Did you say this was desert？〃
〃I shore did。 Wal； there's a hoss blanket under the seat； an' you can have that；〃 he replied； and； climbing to the seat in front of Carley； he took up the reins and started the horses off at a trot。
At the first turning Carley became specifically acquainted with the driver's meaning of a bad day。 A gust of wind； raw and penetrating； laden with dust and stinging sand； swept full in her face。 It came so suddenly that she was scarcely quick enough to close her eyes。 It took considerable clumsy effort on her part with a handkerchief； aided by relieving tears； to clear her sight again。 Thus uncomfortably Carley found herself launched on the last lap of her journey。
All before her and alongside lay the squalid environs of the town。 Looked back at； with the peaks rising behind； it was not unpicturesque。 But the hard road with its sheets of flying dust； the bleak railroad yards； the round pens she took for cattle corrals； and the sordid debris littering the approach to a huge sawmill；these were offensive in Carley's sight。 From a tall dome…like stack rose a yellowish smoke that spread overhead； adding to the lowering aspect of the sky。 Beyond the sawmill extended the open country sloping somewhat roughly； and evidently once a forest； but now a hideous bare slash； with ghastly burned stems of trees still standing； and myriads of stumps attesting to denudation。
The bleak road wound away to the southwest； and from this direction came the gusty wind。 It did not blow regularly so that Carley could be on her guard。 It lulled now and then； permitting her to look about； and then suddenly again whipping dust into her face。 The smell of the dust was as unpleasant as the sting。 It made her nostrils smart。 It was penetrating； and a little more of it would have been suffocating。 And as a leaden gray bank of broken clouds rolled up the wind grew stronger and the air colder。 Chilled before； Carley now became thoroughly cold。
There appeared to be no end to the devastated forest land； and the farther she rode the more barren and sordid grew the landscape。 Carley forgot about the impressive mountains behind her。 And as the ride wore into hours； such was her discomfort and disillusion that she forgot about Glenn Kilbourne。 She did not reach the point of regretting her adventure； but she grew mightily unhappy。 Now and then she espied dilapidated log cabins and surroundings even more squalid than the ruined forest。 What wretched abodes！ Could it be possible that people had lived in them？ She imagined men had but hardly women and children。 Somewhere she had forgotten an idea that women and children were extremely scarce in the West。
Straggling bits of forestyellow pines； the driver called the treesbegan to encroach upon the burned…over and arid barren land。 To Carley these groves； by reason of contrast and proof of what once was； only rendered the landscape more forlorn and dreary。 Why had these miles and miles of forest been cut？ By money grubbers；