twigs are dried by the women； and when ready for market are sold at one dollar per bushel。 It is not to be compared in excellence with the tea of China； nor does it approach in taste or good qualities the well…known yerbamate； another species of holly； which is found in Paraguay； and is the common drink of the people of South America。
The old woman having gone on her way； and we being again alone in the rude little shanty； the good…natured freedman told me his history； ending with； …
〃O that was a glorious day for me； When Massa Lincoln set me free。〃
He had too much ambition； he said； deformed as he was； to be supported as a pauper by the public。 〃I can make just about twelve dollars a month by dis here ferry；〃 he exclaimed。 〃I don't want for nuffin'； I'se got no wife no woman will hab me。 I want to support myself and live an honest man。〃
About seven o'clock he left me to waddle up the road nearly a mile to a little house。
〃I an' another cullo'd man live in partnership；〃 he said。 He could not account for the fact that I had no fear of sleeping alone in the shanty on the marshes。 He went home for the company of his partner； as he 〃didn't like to sleep alone noways。〃
Though the cold wind entered through broken window…lights and under the rudely constructed door； I slept comfortably until morning。 Before Charles had returned； my breakfast was cooked and eaten。
With the sunshine of the morning came a new visitor。 I had made the acquaintance of the late slave； now I received a call from the late master。 My visitor was a pleasant； gentlemanly personage； the owner of the surrounding acres。 His large white house could be seen from the landing； a quarter of a mile up the road。
〃I learned that a stranger from the north was camped here； and was expecting that he would come up and take breakfast with me；〃 was his kindly way of introducing himself。
I told him I was comfortably established in dry quarters； and did not feel justified in forcing myself upon his hospitality while I had so many good things of this life in my provision…basket。
Mr。 Dudley would take no excuse； but conducted me to his house； where I remained that day； attending the religious services in a little church in the vicinity。 My kind host introduced me to his neighbors； several of whom returned with us to dinner。 I found the people about Pungo Ferry； like those I had met along the sounds of the eastern shore of Maryland and Virginia； very piously inclined； the same kindhearted； hospitable people。
My host entertained me the next day； which was rainy； with his life in the Confederate army； in which he served as a lieutenant。 He was a prisoner at Johnson's Island for twenty…two months。 He bore no malice towards northern men who came south to join with the natives in working for the true interests of the country。 The people of the south had become weary of political sufferings inflicted by a floating population from the north； they needed actual settlers； not politicians。 This sentiment I found everywhere expressed。 On Tuesday I bade farewell to my new friends； and rowed down the North Landing River towards Currituck Sound。
The North Carolina line is only a few miles south of the ferry。 The river enters the head of the sound six or eight miles below Pungo Ferry。 A stiff northerly breeze was blowing； and as the river widened； on reaching the head of the sound； to a mile or more； and bays were to be crossed from point to point； it required the exercise of considerable patience and muscular exertion to keep the sea from boarding the little craft amidship。 As I was endeavoring to weather a point； the swivel of one of the outriggers parted at its junction with the row…lock； and it became necessary to get under the south point of the marshes for shelter。
The lee side offered a smooth bay。 It was but a few minutes' work to unload and haul the canoe into the tall rushes； which afforded ample protection against the cold wind。 It was three hours before the wind went down； when the canoe was launched； and； propelled by the double paddle； （always kept in reserve against accidents to oars and row…locks；） I continued over the waters of Currituck Sound。
Swans could now be seen in flocks of twenties and fifties。 They were exceedingly wary； not permitting the canoe to approach within rifle range。 Clouds of ducks； and some Canada geese； as well as brant； kept up a continuous flutter as they rose from the surface of the water。 Away to the southeast extended the glimmering bosom of the sound； with a few islands relieving its monotony。 The three or four houses and two small storehouses at the landing of Currituck Court House； which； with the brick court…house； comprise the whole village； are situated on the west bank； and opposite； eight miles to the eastward； is the narrow beach island that serves as a barrier to the ingress of the ocean。
At sunset I started the last flock of white swans； and grounded in the shoal waters at the landing。 There is no regular hotel here； but a kind lady； Mrs。 Simmons； accommodates the necessities of the occasional traveller。 The canoe was soon locked up in the landing…house。 Fortunately a blacksmith was found outside the village； who promised to repair the broken rowlock early upon the following morning。 Before a pleasant wood fire giving out its heat from a grand old fireplace； with an agreeable visitor； the physician of the place； the tediousness of the three…hours' camp on the marshes was soon forgotten； while the country and its resources were fully discussed until a late hour。
Dr。 Baxter had experimented in grape culture； and gave me many interesting details in regard to the native wine。 In 1714； Lawson described six varieties of native grapes found in North Carolina。 Our three finest varieties of native grapes were taken from North Carolina。 They are the Scuppernong； the Catawba； and the Isabella。 The Scuppernong was found upon the banks of the stream bearing that name； the mouth of which is near the eastern end of Albemarle Sound。 The Catawba was originally obtained on the Catawba River； near its head…waters in Buncombe County。 The Long Island stock of the Isabella grape was brought to New York by Mrs。 Isabella Gibbs： hence the derivation of the name。
Of the six varieties of North Carolina grapes； five were found in Tyrrel County by Amadas and Barlow。 Tradition relates that these travellers carried one small vine to Roanoke Island； which still lives and covers an immense area of ground。 There are five varieties of the grape growing wild on the shores of Albemarle Sound； all of which are called Scuppernong； the legitimate Scuppernong being a white grape； sweet and large； and producing a wine said to resemble somewhat in its luscious flavor the Malmsey made on Mount Ida； in Candia。
The repairing of the outrigger detained me until nearly noon of the next day； when the canoe was got under way； but upon rowing off the mouth of Coanjock Bay； only four miles from Currituck Court House； a strong tempest arose from the south； and observing an old gentleman standing upon Bell Island Point； near his cottage； beckoning me to come ashore； I obeyed； and took refuge with my new acquaintance； Captain Peter L。 Tatum； proprietor of Bell Island。
〃The war has left us without servants；〃 said the captain； as he presented me to his wife； 〃so we make the best of it； and if you will accept our hospitality we will make you comfortable。〃
Captain Tatum drew my attention to the flocks of swans which dotted the waters in the offing； and said： 〃It is hard work to get hold of a swan； though they are a large bird； and abundant in Currituck Sound。 You must use a good rifle to bring one down。 After a strong norther has been blowing； and the birds have worked well into the bight of the bay； near Goose Castle Point； if the wind shifts to the south suddenly； gunners approach from the outside； and the birds becoming cramped in the cove are shot as they rise against the wind。〃
More than forty years ago old Currituck Inlet closed； and the oysters on the natural beds； which extended up North Landing River to Green Point； were killed by the freshening of the water。 Now winds influence the tides which enter at Oregon Inlet； about fifty…five miles south of the Court House。 The difference between the highest and lowest tide at Currituck Court House is three feet。 The sound is filled with sandy shoals； with here and there spots of mud。 The shells of the defunct oysters are everywhere found mixed with the debris of the bottom of the sound。 This is a favorite locality with northern sportsmen。 The best 〃gunning points；〃 as is the case in Chesapeake Bay； are owned by private parties； and cannot be used by the public。
Thursday； the 10th of December； was cold； and proved as tempestuous as the previous day； but the wind had changed to the north； and I embarked amid a swashy beam…sea； with the hope of reaching Van Slyck's Landing at Currituck Narrows。 The norther； however； proved too much for my safety。 My course would be easterly until I had passed the mouth of Coanjock Bay and Goose Castle Point； then following the trend of the west shore southerly down the sound； but the wind raised such a rough sea that I was obliged to turn southward into Coanjock Bay； ascend it five miles； and seek for a crossing…place overland to the sound again； which I found near the entrance of the lockless canal that is used by steamers to pass from North Landing River to North River and Albemarle Sound。
A fire was soon built； upon which I placed long； light poles taken from the drift…wood； and burning them in pieces of the required lengths； （no axe being at hand；） I was prepared to make the portage。 Laying these pieces of wood on the ground； I drew my canoe over them to the shore of Currituck Sound； then； by making up back…loads of the cargo； transported everything to the point of embarkation； which was just inside the mouth of a little creek。
The row to Currituck Narrows was not difficult； as the north wind was a fair one。 Along the west shore of the sound there were many little houses upon the high banks； and a windmill supplied the place of a water…power for grinding corn。