houses upon the high banks； and a windmill supplied the place of a water…power for grinding corn。 The improvements made by Mr。 Van Slyck； of New York； were in cheering contrast to what had been seen since leaving Norfolk。 Here a comfortable hotel welcomes the northern sportsmen； few of whom； for lack of accommodations and travelling conveniences； go much south of this locality； in this state； to shoot wild…fowl。 Currituck Sound has an average width of four miles。 Its length is about thirty…five miles。 At the Narrows； a group of marshy islands divides it into two sections； the northern one being the longest。
The keen； cold air of the next day made rowing a pleasant exercise。 After passing through the tortuous channel； I should have crossed to the beach and followed it； but this part of the bay is very shallow； and deeper water was found on the west side。 It was an enjoyable morning； for gunners were passed； secreted behind their 〃blinds；〃 or pens； of pine brush； which looked like little groves of conifera growing out of the shoal water。 Geese were honking and ducks were quacking； while the deep booming of guns was heard every few minutes。 Decoy…birds were anchored in many places near the marshes。 Every sportsman gave me a cheering word as the canoe glided over the smooth water； while here and there the violet…backed swallow darted about over the marshes as though it were summer。
When opposite Dew's Quarter Island； several men hailed me from a newly constructed shanty。 When the oldest man in the company； who had never seen a shell like the paper canoe； had examined it； he shook his head ominously； and when I told him Nag's Head must be reached that day； he grew excited； exclaiming； 〃Then be off now！ now！ Git across the bay under Bald Beach as soon as ye can； and hug the shore； hug it well clean down to Collington's； and git across the sound afore the wind rises。 Sich a boat as that aren't fit for these here waters。〃
Taking this kindly meant advice； I pulled to the east side； where there was now a good depth of water for the canoe。 On this high beach the hills were well covered with yellow pines； many of which were noble old trees。 On a narrow point of the shore was the comfortable house of Hodges Gallup； the Baptist minister； a generous old gentleman； who seemed to be loved by all the watermen along the sound。 He was described as being 〃full of fun and hospitality。〃 His domain extended for several miles along the beach； and； with deer quietly browsing in his grand old woods； formed a pretty picture。
The beach shore now became more thickly settled； while out in the water； a few rods from each little house； arose the duck…blind； with the gunner and his boat inside； anxiously watching for birds； while their decoys floated quietly on the surface of the water。 A few miles below Mr。 Gallup's estate the canoe entered upon the broad waters of Albemarle Sound； and at dusk I approached Roanoke Island。 The large buildings of the hotels of Nag's Head on the beach rose up as boldly to the eye as a fortification。 The little sound between Roanoke Island and the beach was traversed at dusk as far as the first long pier of Nag's head； upon which with great difficulty I landed； and was soon joined by the keeper of the now deserted summer watering place； Mr。 C。 D。 Rutter； who helped me to carry my property into a room of the old hotel。
Nag's Head Beach is a most desolate locality； with its high sand…hills； composed of fine sand； the forms of which are constantly changing with the action of the dry； hard； varying winds。 A new and very large hotel was located south of the first one； and was inhabited by the family of Captain Jasper Toler； who furnished me with lodgings。 A few fishermen have their homes on this dreary beach； but the village； with its one store； is a forlorn place。
The bright flashes of Body Island Light； ten miles distant； on the north side of Oregon Inlet； showed me my next abiding…place。
The beach from Nag's Head to Oregon Inlet is destitute of trees； and the wind sweeps across it； from the ocean to the sound； with great violence； forcing the shallow waters to retire； and leaving the bottom dry as far out as three miles。
The next day was very windy； and the long； finger…like； sandy shoals； which extended one or two miles out into the sound； were covered with only from three to eight inches of water。 I could not hug the beach for protection； but was forced to keep far out in the sound。 Frequently it became necessary to get overboard and wade； pushing my boat before me。 Then a deep channel between the shoals would be crossed； so； by walking and rowing in Roanoke Sound； with the wind blowing the water over the canoe and drenching its captain； the roundabout twelve miles' passage to Oregon Inlet was at last accomplished； and a most trying one it was。
Body Island Lighthouse was erected in 1872； on the north side of Oregon Inlet； to take the place of the old tower on the south shore。 It is in latitude 35 deg 48'； and longitude 75 deg 33'。 Captain William F。 Hatzel； a loyal North Carolinian； is the principal keeper； and a most efficient one he is。
The temperature was falling rapidly when I crawled into the high rushes of the wet marsh near the light…house to seek shelter from the strong wind that was blowing。 As this treeless beach was destitute of fire…wood； or natural shelter of any kind； necessity compelled me to have recourse to other means for procuring them。 I carried in my pocket a talisman which must open any light…keeper's door； from Maine to the Rio Grande； from Southern California to Alaska； even to the vicinity of the Arctic Circle； the Lighthouse Establishment of the United States has planted a tower or erected a light。 While shivering in wet clothes on this desolate beach； most thankfully did I remember that kind and thoughtful friend； who through his potent influence had supplied me with this open sesame to lightkeepers。
There resides in Washington； when not engaged elsewhere in the important duties of the Commission of Fisheries； a genial gentleman； an ardent naturalist； a great scientist。 To him the young naturalists of America turn for information and advice； and to the humblest applicant Professor Spencer F。 Baird never turns a deaf ear。 How this distinguished author can attend to so many and such varied duties with his laborious investigations； and can so successfully keep up a large correspondence with perhaps one thousand scientific associations of nearly every nation of the universe； is a difficult thing to imagine； but the popular and much beloved Assistant Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution； seemingly ubiquitous in his busy life； does all this and much more。 America may well feel proud of this man of noble nature； shedding light and truth wheresoever he moves； encouraging alike old and young with his kindly sympathy； now taking his precious moments to answer with his own busy hand the question in the letter of some boy naturalist about beasts； birds； reptiles； or fishes； with which epistles his desk is always covered； now stimulating to further effort the old man of science as he struggles with the cares of this world； striving； sometimes vainly； save for this ever ready aid； to work out patiently theories which are soon to blaze forth as substantial facts。 The young generation of naturalists； which is soon to fill the place of their predecessors； have in this man the type of all they need ever strive to attain。 How many； alas； will fall far short of it！
Since boyhood the counsels of this friend had guided me on many a journey of exploration。 He had not deserted me even in this experiment； which my friends called 〃your wildest and most foolish undertaking。〃 He had obtained from the Light House Board a general letter to the lightkeepers of the United States； signed by the naval secretary； Mr。 Walker； in which the keepers were authorized to grant me shelter； &c。； when necessary。 I did not have occasion to use this letter more than twice during my journey。 Having secreted my canoe in the coarse grass of the lowland； I trudged； with my letter in hand； over the sands to the house of the light…keeper； Captain Hatzel； who received me cordially； and after recording in his log…book the circumstances and date of my arrival； conducted me into a comfortable room； which was warmed by a cheerful fire； and lighted up by the smiles of his most orderly wife。 Everything showed discipline and neatness； both in the house and the light…tower。 The whitest of cloths was spread upon the table； and covered with a well…cooked meal； then the father； mother； and two sons； with the stranger within their gates； thanked the Giver of good gifts for his mercies。
Joining the night…watch of the chief lightkeeper； I also joined in the good man's enthusiasm for his wonderful 〃fixed white light；〃 the bright beams of which poured out upon the surrounding waters a flood if brilliancy； gladdening hearts far out at sea； even though twenty miles away； and plainly saying； 〃This is Body Island Beach： keep off！〃 How grand it was to walk out on this gallery in the sky！ Looking eastward； a limitless expanse of ocean； gazing westward； the waters of the great sound； the shores of which were low marshes miles away。 Below me could be heard the soft cackle of the snow…goose （Anser hyperboreus）； which had left its nesting…place on the barren grounds of arctic America； and was now feeding contentedly in its winter home in the shallow salt…ponds； which the gentle shur…r…r… of the waves softly broke on the strand。 Above； the star…lit heavens； whose tender beauty seemed almost within my grasp。 Perched thus upon a single shaft； on a narrow strip of sand far out in the great water； the many thoughts born of solitude crowded my mind； when my reverie was abruptly broken by an exclamation from Captain Hatzel； who threw open the door； and exclaimed； with beaming eyes peering into the darkness as he spoke； 〃I see it！ Yes； it is！ Hatteras Light； thirty…five miles away。 This night； December 13th； is the first time I have caught its flash。 Tell it to the Hatteras keeper when you visit the cape。〃
From Captain Hatzel I gleaned some facts of deep interest in regard to the inhabitants