magnetic oxide of the distant mines。
The ship being now within the estuary of the St。 Lawrence River； must encounter many risks before she reaches the true mouth of the river； at the Bic Islands。
The shores along this arm of the gulf are wild and sombre。 Rocky precipices frown upon the swift tidal current that rushes past their bases。 A few small settlements of fishermen and pilots； like Metis； Father Point； and Rimousky； are discovered at long intervals along the coast。
In these St。 Lawrence hamlets； and throughout Lower Canada； a patois is spoken which is unintelligible to the Londoner or Parisian； and these villagers； the descendants of the French colonists； may be said to be a people destitute of a written language； and strangers to a literature。
While holding a commission from Francis the First； king of France； Jacques Cartier discovered the Gulf of St。 Lawrence； during his first voyage of exploration in the new world。 He entered the gulf on St。 Lawrence's day； in the spring of 1534； and named it in honor of the event。 Cartier explored no farther to the west than about the mouth of the estuary which is divided by the island of Anticosti。 It was during his second voyage； in the following year； that he discovered and explored the great river。 Of the desolate shores of Labrador； on the north coast； he said； 〃It might as well as not be taken for the country assigned by God to Cain。〃
The distance from Quebec to Cape Gaspe； measured upon a course which a steamer would be compelled to take； is four hundred and seven statute miles。 The ship first enters the current of the river St。 Lawrence at the two Bic Islands； where it has a width of about twenty miles。 By consulting most maps the reader will find that geographers carry the river nearly two hundred miles beyond its usual current。 In fact； they appropriate the whole estuary； which； in places； is nearly one hundred miles in width； and call it a river a river which lacks the characteristics of a river； the currents of which vary with the winds and tidal influences； and the waters of which are as salt as those of the briny deep。
Here； in the mouth of the river； at the Bics； secure anchorage for vessels may be found； but below； in the estuary； for a distance of more than two hundred and forty…five miles； to Gaspe； there is but one port of refuge； that of Seven Islands； on the north coast。
As the ship ascends the river from Bic Islands； a passage of about one hundred and sixty statute miles to Quebec； she struggles against a strong current。 Picturesque islands and little villages； such as St。 Andre； St。 Anne； St。 Rogue； St。 Jean； and St。 Thomas； relieve the monotony。 But very different is the winter aspect of this river； when closed to navigation by ice from November until Spring。 Of the many tributaries which give strength to the current of the St。 Lawrence and contribute to its glory； the Saguenay River with its remarkable scenery is counted one of the wonders of our continent。 It joins the great river from the north shore； about one hundred and thirty…four statute miles below Quebec。 Upon the left bank； at its mouth； nestles the little village of Tadousac； the summer retreat of the governor…general of the Dominion of Canada。
American history claims for the Roman Catholic church of this settlement an age second only to that of the old Spanish cathedral at St。 Augustine； Florida。 For three hundred years the storms of winter have beaten upon its walls； but it stands a silent yet eloquent monument of the pious zeal of the ancient Fathers； who came to conquer Satan in the wilderness of a new world。 The Saguenay has become the 〃Mecca〃 of northern tourists； ever attracting them with its wild and fascinating scenery。 Capes Eternity and Trinity guard the entrance to Eternity Bay。 The first towers sublimely to a height of eighteen hundred feet； the other is only a little lower。 A visit to this mysterious river； with its deep； dark waters and picturesque views； will repay the traveller for the discomforts of a long and expensive journey。
Where the turbulent current of the Saguenay mingles angrily with that of the St。 Lawrence； there may be seen disporting in the waves the white whale of aquariums； which is not a whale at all； but a true porpoise （Delphinopterus Catodon； as he is now called by naturalists）； having teeth in the jaws； and being destitute of the fringed bone of the whalebone whales。 This interesting creature is very abundant in the Arctic Ocean on both the Atlantic and Pacific sides； and has its southern limits in the Gulf of St。 Lawrence； although one is occasionally seen in the Bay of Fundy； and it is reported to have been observed about Cape Cod； on the Massachusetts coast。
As the ship nears the first great port of the St。 Lawrence River； the large and well cultivated island of Orleans is passed； and the bold fortifications of Quebec； high up on the face of Point Diamond； and flanked by the houses of the French city； break upon the vision of the mariner。 To the right； and below the city； which Champlain founded； and in which his unknown ashes repose； are the beautiful Falls of Montmorency； gleaming in all the whiteness of their falling waters and mists； like the bridal veil of a giantess。 The vessel has safely made her passage； and now comes to anchor in the Basin of Quebec。 The sails are furled； and the heart of the sailor is merry； for the many dangers which beset the ship while approaching and entering the great water…way of the continent are now over。
CHAPTER II。 FROM QUEBEC TO SOREL
THE WATER…WAY INTO THE CONTINENT。 THE WESTERN AND THE SOUTHERN ROUTE TO THE GULF OF MEXICO。 THE MAYETA。 COMMENCEMENT OF THE VOYAGE。 ASCENT OF THE RIVER ST。 LAWRENCE。 LAKE OF ST。 PETER。 ACADIAN TOWN OF SOREL
The canoe traveller can ascend the St。 Lawrence River to Lake Ontario； avoiding the rapids and shoals by making use of seven canals of a total length of forty…seven miles。 He may then skirt the shores of Lake Ontario； and enter Lake Erie by the canal which passes around the celebrated Falls of Niagara。 From the last great inland sea he can visit lakes Huron； Michigan； and； with the assistance of a short canal； the grandest of all； Superior。 When he has reached the town of Duluth； at the southwestern end of Superior； which is the terminus of the Northern Pacific Railroad； our traveller will have paddled （following the contours of the land） over two thousand miles from salt water into the American continent without having been compelled to make a portage with his little craft。 Let him now make his first portage westward； over the road one hundred and fifteen miles from Duluth to the crossing of the Mississippi River at Brainerd； and launch his boat on the Father of Waters； which he may descend with but few interruptions to below the Falls of St。 Anthony； at Minneapolis； or； if he will take his boat by rail from Duluth； one hundred and fifty…five miles； to St。 Paul； he can launch his canoe； and follow the steamboat to the Gulf of Mexico。 This is the longest； and may be called the canoeist's western route to the great Southern Sea。 In St。 Louis County； Minnesota； the water from 〃Seven Beaver Lakes〃 flows south…southwest；
and joins the Flood…Wood River； there taking an easterly course towards Duluth； it empties into Lake Superior。 This is the St。 Louis River； the first tributary of the mighty St。 Lawrence system。 From the head waters of the St。 Louis to the mouth of the St。 Lawrence at Bic Islands； where it enters the great estuary； the length of this great water system； including the great Lakes； is about two thousand miles。 The area thus drained by the St。 Lawrence River is nearly six millions of square miles。 The largest craft can ascend it to Quebec； and smaller ones to Montreal； above which city； navigation being impeded by rapids； the seven canals before mentioned have been constructed that vessels may avoid this danger while voyaging to Lake Ontario。
The southern and shorter coast route to the gulf leaves the great river at the Acadian town of Sorel； where the quiet Richelieu flows into the St。 Lawrence River。 Of the two long routes offered me I selected the southern； leaving the other to be traversed at some future time。 To follow the contours of rivers； bays； and sounds； a voyage of at least twenty…five hundred miles was before me。 It was my intention to explore the connecting watercourses southward； without making a single portage； as far as Cape Henlopen； a sandy headland at the entrance of Delaware Bay； there； by making short portages from one watercourse to another； to navigate along the interior of the Atlantic coast to the St。 Mary's River； which is a dividing line between Georgia and Florida。 From the Atlantic coast of southern Georgia； I proposed to cross the peninsula of Florida by way of the St。 Mary's River； to Okefenokee Swamp； thence； by portage； to the Suwanee River； and by descending that stream （the boundary line of a geographical division eastern and middle Florida）； to reach the coast of the Gulf of Mexico； which was to be the terminal point of my canoe journey。 Charts； maps and sea…faring men had informed me that about twenty…three hundred miles of the trip could be made upon land…locked waters； but about two hundred miles of voyaging must be done upon the open Atlantic Ocean。
As I now write； I smilingly remember how erroneous were my advisers； for； while prosecuting my voyage； I was but once upon the open sea and then through mistake and for only a few minutes。 Had I then known that I could have followed the whole route in a small boat upon strictly interior waters； I should have paddled from the Basin of Quebec in the light paper canoe which I afterwards adopted at Troy； and which carried me alone in safety two thousand miles to the warm regions of the Gulf of Mexico。 The counsels of old seamen had influenced me to adopt a large wooden clinker…built； decked canoe； eighteen feet long； forty…five inches beam； and twenty…four inches depth of hold； which weighed； with oars； rudder； mast and sail； above three hundred pounds。 The Mayeta was built by an excellent workman； Mr。 J。 S。 Lamson； at Bordentown； New Jersey。 The boat was sharp at each end； and the lines fr