ren and Masonboro are the only inlets which supply the three little sounds above mentioned with water； after Rich Inlet is passed。
The coast from Cape Fear southward eighty miles； to Georgetown； South Carolina； has several small inlets through the beach； but there are no interior waters parallel with the coast in all that distance； which can be of any service to the canoeist for a coast route。 It therefore became necessary for me to follow the next watercourse that could be utilized for reaching Winyah Bay； which is the first entrance to the system of continuous watercourses south of Cape Fear。
The trees of the Nickson Plantation hid the house of the proprietor from view； but upon beaching my canoe； a drove of hogs greeted me with friendly grunts； as if the hospitality of their master infected the drove； and； as it grew dark； they trotted across the field； conducting me up to the very doors of the planter's home； where Captain Mosely； late of the Confederate army； gave me a soldier's hearty welcome。
〃The war is over；〃 he said； 〃and any northern gentleman is welcome to what we have left。〃 Until midnight； this keen…eyed； intelligent officer entertained me with a flow of anecdotes of the war times； his hair…breadth escapes； &c。； the conversation being only interrupted when he paused to pile wood upon the fire； the chimney…place meantime glowing like a furnace。 He told me that Captain Maffitt； of the late Confederate navy； lived at Masonboro； on the sound； and that had I called upon him； he could have furnished； as an old officer of the Coast Survey； much valuable geographical information。 This pleasant conversation was at last interrupted by the wife of my host； who warned us in her courteous way of the lateness of the hour。 With a good…night to my host； and a sad farewell to the sea； I prepared myself for the morrow's journey。
CHAPTER XI。 FROM CAPE FEAR TO CHARLESTON； SOUTH CAROLINA。
A PORTAGE TO LAKE WACCAMAW。 THE SUBMERGED SWAMPS。 NIGHT AT A TURPENTINE DISTILLER A DISMAL WILDERNESS。 OWLS AND MISTLETOE。 CRACKERS AND NEGROES。 ACROSS THE SOUTH CAROLINA LINE。 A CRACKER'S IDEA OF HOSPITALITY。 POT BLUFF。 PEEDEE RIVER。 GEORGETOWN。 WINYAH BAY。 THE RICE PLANTATIONS OF THE SANTEE RIVERS。 A NIGHT WITH THE SANTEE NEGROES。 ARRIVAL AT CHARLESTON。
To reach my next point of embarkation a portage was necessary。 Wilmington was twelve miles distant； and I reached the railroad station of that city with my canoe packed in a bed of corn…husks； on a one…horse dray； in time to take the evening train to Flemington； on Lake Waccamaw。 The polite general freight…agent； Mr。 A。 Pope； allowed my canoe to be transported in the passenger baggage…car； where； as it had no covering； I was obliged to steady it during the ride of thirty…two miles； to protect it from the friction caused by the motion of the train。
Mr。 Pope quietly telegraphed to the few families at the lake； 〃Take care of the paper canoe；〃 so when my destination was reached； kind voices greeted me through the darkness and offered me the hospitalities of Mrs。 Brothers' home…like inn at the Flemington Station。 After Mr。 Carroll had conveyed the boat to his storehouse； we all sat down to tea as sociably as though we were old friends。
On the morrow we carried the Maria Theresa on our shoulders to the little lake； out of which the long and crooked river with its dark cypress waters flowed to the sea。 A son of Mr。 Short； a landed proprietor who holds some sixty thousand acres of the swamp lands of the Waccamaw； escorted me in his yacht； with a party of ladies and gentlemen； five miles across the lake to my point of departure。 It was now noon； and our little party picnicked under the lofty trees which rise from the low shores of Lake Waccamaw。
A little later we said our adieu； and the paper canoe shot into the whirling current which rushes out of the lake through a narrow aperture into a great and dismal swamp。 Before leaving the party； Mr。 Carroll had handed me a letter addressed to Mr。 Hall； who was in charge of a turpentine distillery on my route。 〃It is twenty miles by the river to my friend Hall's；〃 he said； 〃but in a straight line the place is just four miles from here。〃 Such is the character of the Waccamaw； this most crooked of rivers。
I had never been on so rapid and continuous a current。 As it whirled me along the narrow watercourse I was compelled to abandon my oars and use the paddle in order to have my face to the bow； as the abrupt turns of the stream seemed to wall me in on every side。 Down the tortuous； black； rolling current went the paper canoe； with a giant forest covering the great swamp and screening me from the light of day。 The swamps were submerged； and as the water poured out of the thickets into the river it would shoot across the land from one bend to another； presenting in places the mystifying spectacle of water running up stream； but not up an inclined plain。 Festoons of gray Spanish moss hung from the weird limbs of monster trees； giving a funeral aspect to the gloomy forest； while the owls hooted as though it were night。 The creamy； wax…like berries of the mistletoe gave a Druidical aspect to the woods； for this parasite grew upon the branches of many trees。
One spot only of firm land rose from the water in sixteen miles of paddling from the lake； and passing it； I went flying on with the turbulent stream four miles further； to where rafts of logs blocked the river； and the sandy banks； covered with the upland forest of pines； encroached upon the lowlands。 This was Old Dock； with its turpentine distillery smoking and sending out resinous vapors。
Young Mr。 Hall read my letter and invited me to his temporary home； which； though roughly built of unplaned boards； possessed two comfortable rooms； and a large fireplace； in which light…wood； the terebinthine heart of the pine…tree； was cheerfully blazing。
I had made the twenty miles in three hours； but the credit of this quick time must be given to the rapid current。 My host did not seem well pleased with the solitude imposed upon him。 His employers had sent him from Wilmington； to hold and protect 〃their turpentine farm；〃 which was a wilderness of trees covering four thousand acres； and was valued； with its distillery； at five thousand dollars。 An old negro； who attended the still and cooked the meals； was his only companion。
We had finished our frugal repast； when a man； shouting in the darkness； approached the house on horseback。 This individual； though very tipsy； represented Law and Order in that district； as I was informed when 〃Jim Gore；〃 a justice of the peace； saluted me in a boisterous manner。 Seating himself by the fire； he earnestly inquired for the bottle。 His stomach； he said； was as dry as a lime…kiln； and； though water answers to slake lime； he demanded something stronger to slake the fire that burned within him。 He was very suspicious of me when Hall told him of my canoe journey。 After eying me from head to toe in as steady a manner as he was capable of； he broke forth with： 〃Now； stranger； this won't do。 What are ye a…travel'ing in this sort of way for； in a paper dug…out？〃
I pleaded a strong desire to study geography； but the wise fellow replied：
〃Geography！ geography！ Why； the fellers who rite geography never travel； they stay at home and spin their yarns 'bout things they never sees。〃 Then； glancing at his poor butternut coat and pantaloons； he felt my blue woollen suit； and continued； in a slow； husky voice： 〃Stranger； them clothes cost something； they be store…clothes。 That paper dug…out cost money； I tell ye； and it costs something to travel the hull length of the land。 No； stranger； if ye be not on a bet； then somebody's a…paying ye well for it。〃
For an hour I entertained this roughest of law dignitaries with an account of my long row； its trials and its pleasures。 He became interested in the story； and finally related to me his own aspirations； and the difficulties attending his efforts to make the piny…woods people respect the laws and good government。 He then described the river route through the swamps to the sea； and； putting his arm around me in the most affectionate manner； he mournfully said：
〃O stranger； my heart is with ye； but O； how ye will have to take it when ye go past those awful wretches to…morrow； how they will give it to ye！ They most knocked me off my raft； last time I went to Georgetown。 Beware of them； I warn ye in time。 Dern the hussies。〃
Squire Jim so emphasized the danger that I became somewhat alarmed； for； more than anything else； I dreaded an outbreak with rough women。 And then； too； my new acquaintance informed me that there were four or five of these wretches； of the worst kind； located several miles down the stream。 As I was about to inquire into the habits of these ugly old crones； Mr。 Hall； wishing to give Squire James a hint； remarked that Mr。 B_____ might at any time retire to the next room； where half the bed was at his disposal。
〃Half the bed！〃 roared the squire； 〃here are three of us； and where's my half？〃
〃Why； squire；〃 hesitatingly responded my host； Mr。 B_____ is my guest； and having but one bed； he must have half of it no less。〃
〃Then what's to become of me？〃 thundered his Majesty of the law。
Having been informed that a shake…down would have been ready had he given notice of his visit； and that at some future time； when not so crowded； he could be entertained like a gentleman； he drew himself up； wrapped in the mantle of dignity； and replied：
〃None of that soft talk； my friend。 This man is a traveller； let him take travellers' luck three in a bed to…night。 I'm bound to sleep with him to…night。 Hall； where's the bottle？〃
I now retired to the back room； and； without undressing； planted myself on the side of the bed next the wall。 Sleep was； however； an unattainable luxury； with the squire's voice in the next room； as he told how the country was going to the dogs； because 〃niggers and white folks wouldn't respect the laws。 It took half a man's time to larn it to 'em； and much thanks he ever got by setting everybody to rights。〃 He wound up by lecturing Hall for being so temperate； his diligent search in all directions fo