ven more mysterious than when； mirage…like； it peered forth from a cloud of mist。 But it was real； and not fantastic。 Another hail； louder than the first； went forth into the night air； and penetrated to the ship's forecastle； for a sailor answered my call； and reported to the captain in the cabin the presence of a boat at the ship's side。
A quick； firm tread sounded upon the deck； then； with a light bound； a powerfully…built young man landed upon the high rail of the vessel。 He peered down from his stately ship upon the little speck which floated upon the gurgling current； then； with a voice 〃filled with the fogs of the ocean；〃 he thundered forth； as though he were hailing a man…of…war： 〃What boat's that？〃
〃Paper canoe Maria Theresa；〃 I replied； in as foggy a voice as I could assume。
〃Where from； and where bound？〃 again roared the captain。
〃From Quebec； Canada； and bound to sleep on board your vessel； if I can ever get up there；〃 I politely responded； in a more subdued voice； for I soon discovered that nature had never intended me for a fog…trumpet。
〃Ah； is it you？〃 cheerily responded the captain； suddenly dispensing with all his fogginess； 〃I've been looking for you this long time。 Got a Charleston paper on board； your trip all in it。 Come up； and break a bottle of wine with me。〃
〃All hands〃 came from the forecastle； and Finland mates and Finland sailors； speaking both English and Russian； crowded to the rail to receive the paper canoe； which had first been described to them by English newspapers when the vessel lay in a British port； awaiting the charter…party which afterwards sent them to Bull River； South Carolina； for a load of phosphates。
The jolly crew lowered buntlines and clewlines； to which I attached my boat's stores。 These were hoisted up the high sides of the ship； and； after bending on a line to the bow and stern rings of the canoe； I ascended by the ladder； while Captain Johs。 Bergelund and his mates claimed the pleasure of landing the paper canoe on the deck of the Rurik。 The tiny shell looked very small as she rested on the broad； white decks of the emperor of Russia's old steam yacht； which bore the name of the founder of the Russian empire。 Though now a bark and not a steamer； though a freighter and not a royal yacht； the Rurik looked every inch a government vessel； for her young captain； with a sailor's pride； kept her in a thorough state of cleanliness and order。 We went to supper。 The captain； his mates； and the stranger gathered around the board； while the generous sailor brought out his curious bottles and put them by the side of the still more curious dishes of food。
All my surroundings were those of the country of the midnight sun； and I should have felt more bewildered than when in the fog I viewed and chased this spectral…looking ship； had not Captain Bergelund； in most excellent English； entertained me with a flow of conversation which put me at my ease。 He discoursed of Finland； where lakes covered the country from near Abo； its chief city； to the far north； where the summer days are 〃nearly all night long。〃
Painting in high colors the delights of his native land； he begged me to visit it。 Finally； as midnight drew near； this genial sailor insisted upon putting me in his own comfortable stateroom； while he slept upon a lounge in the cabin。
One mile above the Rurik's anchorage was the phosphate…mill of the Pacific Company； which was supplying Captain Bergelund； by lighters； with his freight of unground fertilizer。
The next morning I took leave of the Rurik； but； instead of descending the Bull River to the Coosaw； I determined to save time by crossing the peninsula between the two rivers by means of two short creeks which were connected at their sources by a very short canal near 〃the mines〃 of the Phosphate Company。 When I entered Horse Island Creek； at eleven o'clock； the tide was on the last of the ebb； and I sat in the canoe a long time awaiting the flood to float me up the wide ditch； which would conduct me to the creek that emptied into the Coosaw。 Upon the banks of the canal three hours were lost waiting for the tide to give me one foot of water； when I rowed into the second watercourse； and late in the afternoon entered the wide Coosaw。 The two creeks and the connecting canal are called the Haulover Creek。
As I turned up the Coosaw； and skirted the now submerged marshes of its left bank； two dredging…machines were at work up the river raising the remains of the marine monsters of antiquity。 The strong wind and swashing seas being in my favor； the canoe soon arrived opposite the spot of upland I had so longed to reach the previous night。
This was Chisolm's Landing； back of which were the phosphate works of the Coosaw Mine Company。 The inspector of phosphates； Mr。 John Hunn； offered me the hospitality of Alligator Hall； where he and some of the gentlemen employed by the company resided in bachelor retirement。 My host described a mammal's tooth that weighed nearly fourteen pounds； which had been taken from a phosphate mine； it had been sent to a public room at Beaufort； South Carolina。 A fossil shark's tooth； weighing four and a half pounds； was also found； and a learned ichthyologist has asserted that the owner of this remarkable relic of the past must have been one hundred feet in length。
Beaufort was near at hand； and could be easily reached by entering Brickyard Creek； the entrance of which was on the right bank of the Coosaw； nearly opposite Chisolm's Landing。 It was nearly six miles by this creek to Beaufort； and from that town to Port Royal Sound； by following Beaufort River； was a distance of eleven miles。 The mouth of Beaufort River is only two miles from the sea。 Preferring to follow a more interior water route than the Beaufort one； the canoe was rowed up the Coosaw five miles to Whale Branch； which is crossed by the Port Royal railroad bridge。 Whale Branch； five miles in length； empties into Broad River； which I descended thirteen miles； to the lower end of Daw Island； on its right bank。 Here； in this region of marshy shores； the Chechessee River and the Broad River mingle their strong currents in Port Royal Sound。 It was dusk when the sound was entered from the extreme end of Daw Island； where it became necessary to cross immediately to Skull Creek； at Hilton Head Island； or go into camp for the night。
I looked down the sound six miles to the broad Atlantic； which was sending in clouds of mist on a fresh breeze。 I gazed across the mouth of the Chechessee； and the sound at the entrance of the port of refuge。 I desired to traverse nearly three miles of this rough water。 I would gladly have camped； hut the shore I was about to leave offered to submerge me with the next high water。 No friendly hammock of trees could be seen as I glided from the shadow of the high rushes of Daw Island。 Circumstances decided the point in debate； and I rowed rapidly into the sound。 The canoe had not gone half a mile when the Chechessee River opened fully to view； and a pretty little hammock； with two or three shanties beneath its trees； could be plainly seen on Daw's Island。
It was now too late to return and ascend the river to the hammock； for the sound was disturbed by the freshening breeze from the sea blowing against the ebb…tide； which was increased in power by the outflowing flume of water from the wide Chechessee。 It required all the energy I possessed to keep the canoe from being overrun by the swashy； sharp…pointed seas。 Once or twice I thought my last struggle for life had come； but a merciful Power gave me the strength and coolness that this trying ordeal required； and I somehow weathered the dangerous oyster reefs above Skull Creek； and landed at 〃Seabrook Plantation；〃 upon Hilton Head Island； near two or three old houses； one of which was being fitted up as a store by Mr。 Kleim； of the First New York Volunteers； who had lived on the island since 1861。 Mr。 Kleim took me to his bachelor quarters； where the wet cargo of the Maria Theresa was dried by the kitchen fireplace。
The next day； February 18； I left Seabrook and followed Skull Creek to Mackay's Creek； and； passing the mouth of May River； entered Calibogue Sound； where a sudden tempest arose and drove me into a creek which flowed out of the marshes of Bull Island。 A few negro huts were discovered on a low mound of earth。 The blacks told me their hammock was called Bird Island。
The tempest lasted all day； and as no shelter could be found on the creek； a darky hauled my canoe on a cart a couple of miles to Bull Creek； which enters into Cooper River； one of the watercourses I was to enter from Calibogue Sound。 Upon reaching the wooded shores of Bull Creek； my carter introduced me to the head man of the settlement； a weazened…looking little old creature called Cuffy； who； though respectful in his demeanor to 〃de Yankee…mans；〃 was cross and overbearing to the few families occupying the shanties in the magnificent grove of live…oaks which shaded them。
Cuffy's cook…house； or kitchen； which was a log structure measuring nine by ten feet； with posts only three feet high； was the only building which could be emptied of its contents for my accommodation。 Our contract or lease was a verbal one； Cuffy's terms being 〃whateber de white man likes to gib an ole nigger。〃 Cuffy cut a big switch； and sent in his 〃darter；〃 a girl of about fourteen years； to clean out the shanty。 When she did not move fast enough to suit the old man's wishes； he switched her over the shoulders till it excited my pity； but the girl seemed to take the beating as an every…day amusement； for it made no impression on her hard skull and thick skin。
After commencing to 〃keep house；〃 the old women came to sell me eggs and beg for 〃bacca。〃 They requested me never to throw away my coffee…grounds； as it made coffee 〃good 'nuf for black folks。〃 I distributed some of my stores among them； and； after cutting rushes and boughs for my bed； turned in for the night。
These negroes had been raising Sea…Island cotton； but the price having declined to five cents a pound； they could not get twenty…five cents a day for their labor by cultivating it。
The fierce wind subsided before dawn； but a heav