beautifully delineated on the Coast Charts No。 56…57 of the United States Coast Survey； which were published the year after my voyage ended。
Steamers run from Savannah through these interesting interior water…ways to the ports of the St。 John's River； Florida； and by taking this route the traveller can escape a most uninteresting railroad journey from Savannah to Jacksonville； where sandy soils and pine forests present an uninviting prospect to the eye。 A little dredging； in a few places along the steamboat route； should be done at national cost； to make this a more convenient and expeditious tidal route for vessels。
Leaving Greenwich； Bonaventure； and Thunderbolt behind me on the upland； the canoe entered the great marshy district of the coast along the Wilmington and Skiddaway rivers to Skiddaway Narrows； which is a contracted； crooked watercourse connecting the Skiddaway with the Burnside River。 The low lands were made picturesque by hammocks； some of which were cultivated。
In leaving the Burnside for the broad Vernon River； as the canoe approached the sea； one of the sudden tempests which frequently vex these coast…waters arose； and drove me to a hammock in the marshes of Green Island； on the left bank and opposite the mouth of the Little Ogeechee River。 Green Island has been well cultivated in the past； but is now only the summer home of Mr。 Styles； its owner。 Two or three families of negroes inhabited the cabins and looked after the property of the absent proprietor。
I waded to my knees in the mud before the canoe could be landed； and； as it stormed all night； I slept on the floor of the humble cot of the negro Echard Holmes； having first treated the household to crackers and coffee。 The negroes gathered from other points to examine the canoe； and； hearing that I was from the north； one grizzly old darky begged me to 〃carry〃 his complaints to Washington。
〃De goberment；〃 he said； 〃has been berry good to wees black folks。 It gib us our freedom； all berry well； but dar is an noder ting wees wants； dat is； wees wants General Grant to make tings stashionary。 De storekeeper gibs a poor nigger only one dollar fur bushel corn； sometimes not so much。 Den he makes poor nigger gib him tree dollars fur bag hominy； sometimes more'n dat。 Wees wants de goberment to make tings stashionary。 Make de storekeeper gib black man one dollar and quarter fur de bushel of corn； and make him sell de poor nigger de bag hominy fur much less dan tree dollars。 Make all tings stashionary。 Den dar's one ting more。 Tell de goberment to do fur poor darky 'nodder ting； make de ole massa say to me； You's been good slave in ole times； berry good slave； now I gib you one； two； tree； five acres of land for yoursef。' Den ole nigger be happy； and massa be happy too； den bof of um bees happy。 Hab you a leetle bacca fur dis ole man？〃
From the Styles mansion it was but three miles to Ossabaw Sound。 Little Don Island and Raccoon Key are in the mouth of the Vernon。 Between the two flat islands is a deep passage through which the tides rush with great force； it is called Hell Gate。 On the south side of Raccoon Key the Great Ogeechee River pours its strong volume of water into Ossabaw Sound。
I entered the Great Ogeechee through the Don Island passage； and saw sturgeon…fishermen at work with their nets along the shores of Ossabaw； one of the sea islands。 Ossabaw Island lies between Ossabaw and St。 Catherine's sounds； and is eight miles long and six miles wide。 The side towards the sea is firm upland； diversified with glades； while the western portion is principally marshes cut up by numerous creeks。 All the sea islands produce the long staple cotton known as sea…island cotton； and before the war a very valuable variety。 A few negroes occupy the places abandoned by the proprietor； and eke out a scanty livelihood。
There are many deer in the forests of Ossabaw Island。 One of its late proprietors informed me that there must be at least ten thousand wild hogs there； as they have been multiplying for many years； and but few were shot by the negroes。 The domestic hog becomes a very shy animal if left to himself for two or three years。 The hunter may search for him without a dog almost in vain； though the woods may contain large numbers of these creatures。
The weather was now delightful； and had I possessed a light tent I would not have sought shelter at night in a human habitation anywhere along the route。 The malaria which arises from fresh…water sinks in many of the sea islands during the summer months； did not now make camping…out dangerous to the health。 Crossing the Great Ogeechee above Middle Marsh Island； I followed the river to the creek called Florida Passage； through which I reached Bear River； with its wide and long reaches； and descended it to St。 Catherine's Sound。
Now the sea opened to full view as the canoe crossed the tidal ocean gateway two miles to North Newport River。 When four miles up the Newport I entered Johnson's Creek； which flows from North to South Newport rivers。 By means of the creek and the South Newport River； my little craft was navigated down to the southern end of St。 Catherine's Island to the sound of the same name； and here another inlet was crossed at sunset； and High Point of Sapelo Island was reached。
From among the green trees of the high bluff a mansion； which exhibited the taste of its builder； rose imposingly。 This was； however； but one of the many edifices that are tombs of buried hopes。 The proprietor； a northern gentleman； after the war purchased one…third of Sapelo Island for fifty…five thousand dollars in gold。 He attempted； as many other enterprising northerners had done； to give the late slave a chance to prove his worth as a freedman to the world。
〃Pay the negro wages； treat him as you would treat a white man； and he will reward your confidence with industry and gratitude。〃 So thought and so acted the large…hearted northern colonel。 He built a large mansion； engaged his freedmen； paid them for their work； and treated them like men。 The result was ruin； and simply because he had not paused to consider that the negro had not been born a freedman； and that the demoralization of slavery was still upon him。 Beside which facts we must also place certain ethnological and moral principles which exist in the pure negro type； and which are entirely overlooked by those philanthropic persons who have rarely； if ever； seen a full…blooded negro； but affect to understand him through his half…white brother； the mulatto。
Mud River opened its wide mouth before me as I left the inlet； but the tide was very low； and Mud River is a sticking…point in the passage of the Florida steamers。 It became so dark that I was obliged to get near the shore to make a landing。 My attempt was made opposite a negro's house which was on a bluff but the water had receded into the very narrow channel of Mud River； and I was soon stuck fast on a flat。 Getting overboard； I sank to my knees in the soft mud。 I called for help； and was answered by a tall darky； who； with a double…barrelled gun； left his house and stood in a threatening manner on the shore。 I appealed for help； and said I wished to go ashore。 〃Den cum de best way you can；〃 he answered in a surly manner。 〃What duz you want 'bout here； any way？ What duz you want on Choc'late Plantation； anyhow？〃
I explained to this ugly black that I was a northern man； travelling to see the country； and wished to camp near his house for protection； and promised； if he would aid me to land； that I would convince him of my honest purpose by showing him the contents of my canoe； and would prove to him that I was no enemy to the colored man。 I told him of the maps； the letters； and the blankets which were in the little canoe now so fast in the mud； and what a loss it would be if some marauder； passing on the next high tide； should steal my boat。
The fellow slowly lowered his gun； which had been held in a threatening position； and said：
〃Nobody knows his friends in dese times。 I'se had a boat stealed by some white man； and spose you was cumin to steal sumting else。 Dese folks on de riber can't be trussed。 Dey steals ebryting。 Heaps o' bad white men 'bout nowadnys sens de war。 Steals a nigger's chickens； boats； and ebryting dey lays hands on。 Up at de big house on High Pint （norfen gemmin built him； and den got gusted wid cotton…planting and went home） de white folks goes and steals all de cheers and beds； and ebryting out ob de house。 Sens de war all rascals。〃
It was a wearisome and dangerous job for me to navigate the canoe over the soft； slippery mud to the firm shore； as there were unfathomed places in the flats which might ingulf or entomb me at any step； but the task was completed； and I stood face to face with the now half tranquillized negro。 Before removing the mud that hung upon me to the waist in heavy clods； I showed the darky my chart…case； and explained the object of my mission。 He was very intelligent； and； after asking a few questions； said to his son：
〃Take dis gun to de house；〃 and then turning to me； continued： 〃Dis is de sort ob man I'se am。 I'se knows how to treat a friend like a white man； and I'se can fight wid my knife or my fist or my gun anybody who 'poses on me。 Now I'se knows you is a gemmin I'se won't treat you like a nigger。 Gib you best I'se got。 Cum to de house。〃
When inside of the house of this resolute black； every attention was paid to my comfort。 The cargo of the paper canoe was piled up in one corner of the room。 The wife and children sat before the bright fire and listened to the story of my cruise。 I doctored the sick pickaninny of my host； and made the family a pot of strong coffee。 This negro could read； but he asked me to address a label he wished to attach to a bag of Sea…Island cotton of one hundred and sixty pounds' weight； which he had raised； and was to ship by the steamboat Lizzie Baker to a mercantile house in Savannah。
As I rested upon my blankets； which were spread upon the floor of the only comfortable room in the house； at intervals during the night the large form of the black stole softly in and bent over me to see if I were well covered up； and he as