paper； in which stems； leaves； and even petals are brutally
crushed； and the grace and individuality of each flower
systematically destroyed？
Kanaya is the chief man in this village； besides being the leader
of the dissonant squeaks and discords which represent music at the
Shinto festivals； and in some mysterious back region he compounds
and sells drugs。 Since I have been here the beautification of his
garden has been his chief object； and he has made a very
respectable waterfall； a rushing stream； a small lake； a rustic
bamboo bridge； and several grass banks； and has transplanted
several large trees。 He kindly goes out with me a good deal； and；
as he is very intelligent； and Ito is proving an excellent； and； I
think； a faithful interpreter； I find it very pleasant to be here。
They rise at daylight； fold up the wadded quilts or futons on and
under which they have slept； and put them and the wooden pillows；
much like stereoscopes in shape； with little rolls of paper or
wadding on the top； into a press with a sliding door； sweep the
mats carefully； dust all the woodwork and the verandahs； open the
amadowooden shutters which； by sliding in a groove along the edge
of the verandah； box in the whole house at night； and retire into
an ornamental projection in the dayand throw the paper windows
back。 Breakfast follows； then domestic avocations； dinner at one；
and sewing； gardening； and visiting till six； when they take the
evening meal。
Visitors usually arrive soon afterwards； and stay till eleven or
twelve。 Japanese chess； story…telling； and the samisen fill up the
early part of the evening； but later； an agonising performance；
which they call singing； begins； which sounds like the very essence
of heathenishness； and consists mainly in a prolonged vibrating
〃No。〃 As soon as I hear it I feel as if I were among savages。
Sake； or rice beer； is always passed round before the visitors
leave； in little cups with the gods of luck at the bottom of them。
Sake； when heated； mounts readily to the head； and a single small
cup excites the half…witted man…servant to some very foolish
musical performances。 I am sorry to write it； but his master and
mistress take great pleasure in seeing him make a fool of himself；
and Ito； who is from policy a total abstainer； goes into
convulsions of laughter。
One evening I was invited to join the family； and they entertained
me by showing me picture and guide books。 Most Japanese provinces
have their guide…books； illustrated by wood…cuts of the most
striking objects； and giving itineraries； names of yadoyas； and
other local information。 One volume of pictures； very finely
executed on silk； was more than a century old。 Old gold lacquer
and china； and some pieces of antique embroidered silk； were also
produced for my benefit； and some musical instruments of great
beauty； said to be more than two centuries old。 None of these
treasures are kept in the house； but in the kura； or fireproof
storehouse； close by。 The rooms are not encumbered by ornaments； a
single kakemono； or fine piece of lacquer or china； appears for a
few days and then makes way for something else； so they have
variety as well as simplicity； and each object is enjoyed in its
turn without distraction。
Kanaya and his sister often pay me an evening visit； and； with
Brunton's map on the floor； we project astonishing routes to
Niigata； which are usually abruptly abandoned on finding a
mountain…chain in the way with never a road over it。 The life of
these people seems to pass easily enough； but Kanaya deplores the
want of money； he would like to be rich； and intends to build a
hotel for foreigners。
The only vestige of religion in his house is the kamidana； or god…
shelf； on which stands a wooden shrine like a Shinto temple； which
contains the memorial tablets to deceased relations。 Each morning
a sprig of evergreen and a little rice and sake are placed before
it； and every evening a lighted lamp。
LETTER X（Continued）
Darkness visibleNikko ShopsGirls and MatronsNight and Sleep
Parental LoveChildish DocilityHair…dressingSkin Diseases。
I don't wonder that the Japanese rise early； for their evenings are
cheerless； owing to the dismal illumination。 In this and other
houses the lamp consists of a square or circular lacquer stand；
with four uprights； 2。5 feet high； and panes of white paper。 A
flatted iron dish is suspended in this full of oil； with the pith
of a rush with a weight in the centre laid across it； and one of
the projecting ends is lighted。 This wretched apparatus is called
an andon； and round its wretched 〃darkness visible〃 the family
huddlesthe children to play games and learn lessons； and the
women to sew； for the Japanese daylight is short and the houses are
dark。 Almost more deplorable is a candlestick of the same height
as the andon； with a spike at the top which fits into a hole at the
bottom of a 〃farthing candle〃 of vegetable wax； with a thick wick
made of rolled paper； which requires constant snuffing； and； after
giving for a short time a dim and jerky light； expires with a bad
smell。 Lamps； burning mineral oils； native and imported； are being
manufactured on a large scale； but； apart from the peril connected
with them； the carriage of oil into country districts is very
expensive。 No Japanese would think of sleeping without having an
andon burning all night in his room。
These villages are full of shops。 There is scarcely a house which
does not sell something。 Where the buyers come from； and how a
profit can be made； is a mystery。 Many of the things are eatables；
such as dried fishes； 1。5 inch long； impaled on sticks； cakes；
sweetmeats composed of rice； flour； and very little sugar； circular
lumps of rice dough； called mochi； roots boiled in brine； a white
jelly made from beans； and ropes； straw shoes for men and horses；
straw cloaks； paper umbrellas； paper waterproofs； hair…pins； tooth…
picks； tobacco pipes； paper mouchoirs； and numbers of other trifles
made of bamboo； straw； grass； and wood。 These goods are on stands；
and in the room behind； open to the street； all the domestic
avocations are going on； and the housewife is usually to be seen
boiling water or sewing with a baby tucked into the back of her
dress。 A lucifer factory has recently been put up； and in many
house fronts men are cutting up wood into lengths for matches。 In
others they are husking rice； a very laborious process； in which
the grain is pounded in a mortar sunk in the floor by a flat…ended
wooden pestle attached to a long horizontal lever； which is worked
by the feet of a man； invariably naked； who stands at the other
extremity。
In some women are weaving； in others spinning cotton。 Usually
there are three or four togetherthe mother； the eldest son's
wife； and one or two unmarried girls。 The girls marry at sixteen；
and shortly these comely； rosy； wholesome…looking creatures pass
into haggard； middle…aged women with vacant faces； owing to the
blackening of the teeth and removal of the eyebrows； which； if they
do not follow betrothal； are resorted to on the birth of the first
child。 In other houses women are at their toilet； blackening their
teeth before circular metal mirrors placed in folding stands on the
mats； or performing ablutions； unclothed to the waist。 Early the
village is very silent； while the children are at school； their
return enlivens it a little； but they are quiet even at play； at
sunset the men return； and things are a little livelier； you hear a
good deal of splashing in baths； and after that they carry about
and play with their younger children； while the older ones prepare
lessons for the following day by reciting them in a high；
monotonous twang。 At dark the paper windows are drawn； the amado；
or external wooden shutters； are closed； the lamp is lighted before
the family shrine； supper is eaten； the children play at quiet
games round the andon； and about ten the quilts and wooden pillows
are produced from the press； the amado are bolted； and the family
lies down to sleep in one room。 Small trays of food and the
tabako…bon are always within reach of adult sleepers； and one grows
quite accustomed to hear the sound of ashes being knocked out of
the pipe at intervals during the night。 The children sit up as
late as their parents； and are included in all their conversation。
I never saw people take so much delight in their offspring；
carrying them about； or holding their hands in walking； watching
and entering into their games； supplying them constantly with new
toys； taking them to picnics and festivals； never being content to
be without them； and treating other people's children also with a
suitable measure of affection and attention。 Both fathers and
mothers take a pride in their children。 It is most amusing about
six every morning to see twelve or fourteen men sitting on a low
wall； each with a child under two years in his arms； fondling and
playing with it； and showing off its physique and intelligence。 To
judge from appearances； the children form the chief topic at this
morning gathering。 At night； after the houses are shut up； looking
through the long fringe of rope or rattan which conceals the
sliding door； you see the father； who wears nothing but a maro in
〃the bosom of his family；〃 bending his ugly； kindly face over a
gentle…looking baby； and the mother； who more often than not has
dropped the kimono from her shoulders； enfolding two children
destitute of clothing in her arms。 For some reasons they prefer
boys； but certainly girls are equally petted and loved。 The
children； though for our ideas too gentle and formal； are very
prepossessing in looks and behaviour。 They are so perfectly docile
and obedient； so ready to help their parents； so good to the little
ones； and； in the many hours which I have spent in watching them at
play； I have never heard an angry word or seen a sour look or act。
But they are little men and women rather than children； and their
old…fashioned appearance is greatly aided by their dress； which； as
I have remarked before； is the same as that of adults。
There are； however； various styles of dressing the hair