single； wide…sleeved； scanty； blue cotton garment； not fastened or
girdled at the waist； straw sandals； kept on by a thong passing
between the great toe and the others； and if they wear any head…
gear； it is only a wisp of blue cotton tied round the forehead。
The one garment is only an apology for clothing； and displays lean
concave chests and lean muscular limbs。 The skin is very yellow；
and often much tattooed with mythical beasts。 The charge for
sampans is fixed by tariff； so the traveller lands without having
his temper ruffled by extortionate demands。
The first thing that impressed me on landing was that there were no
loafers； and that all the small； ugly； kindly…looking； shrivelled；
bandy…legged； round…shouldered； concave…chested； poor…looking
beings in the streets had some affairs of their own to mind。 At
the top of the landing…steps there was a portable restaurant； a
neat and most compact thing； with charcoal stove； cooking and
eating utensils complete； but it looked as if it were made by and
for dolls； and the mannikin who kept it was not five feet high。 At
the custom…house we were attended to by minute officials in blue
uniforms of European pattern and leather boots； very civil
creatures； who opened and examined our trunks carefully； and
strapped them up again； contrasting pleasingly with the insolent
and rapacious officials who perform the same duties at New York。
Outside were about fifty of the now well…known jin…ti…ki…shas； and
the air was full of a buzz produced by the rapid reiteration of
this uncouth word by fifty tongues。 This conveyance； as you know；
is a feature of Japan； growing in importance every day。 It was
only invented seven years ago； and already there are nearly 23；000
in one city； and men can make so much more by drawing them than by
almost any kind of skilled labour； that thousands of fine young men
desert agricultural pursuits and flock into the towns to make
draught…animals of themselves； though it is said that the average
duration of a man's life after he takes to running is only five
years； and that the runners fall victims in large numbers to
aggravated forms of heart and lung disease。 Over tolerably level
ground a good runner can trot forty miles a day； at a rate of about
four miles an hour。 They are registered and taxed at 8s。 a year
for one carrying two persons； and 4s。 for one which carries one
only； and there is a regular tariff for time and distance。
The kuruma； or jin…ri…ki…sha； ｛2｝ consists of a light perambulator
body； an adjustable hood of oiled paper； a velvet or cloth lining
and cushion； a well for parcels under the seat； two high slim
wheels； and a pair of shafts connected by a bar at the ends。 The
body is usually lacquered and decorated according to its owner's
taste。 Some show little except polished brass； others are
altogether inlaid with shells known as Venus's ear； and others are
gaudily painted with contorted dragons； or groups of peonies；
hydrangeas； chrysanthemums； and mythical personages。 They cost
from 2 pounds upwards。 The shafts rest on the ground at a steep
incline as you get init must require much practice to enable one
to mount with ease or dignitythe runner lifts them up； gets into
them； gives the body a good tilt backwards； and goes off at a smart
trot。 They are drawn by one； two； or three men； according to the
speed desired by the occupants。 When rain comes on； the man puts
up the hood； and ties you and it closely up in a covering of oiled
paper； in which you are invisible。 At night； whether running or
standing still； they carry prettily…painted circular paper lanterns
18 inches long。 It is most comical to see stout； florid； solid…
looking merchants； missionaries； male and female； fashionably…
dressed ladies； armed with card cases； Chinese compradores； and
Japanese peasant men and women flying along Main Street； which is
like the decent respectable High Street of a dozen forgotten
country towns in England； in happy unconsciousness of the
ludicrousness of their appearance； racing； chasing； crossing each
other； their lean； polite； pleasant runners in their great hats
shaped like inverted bowls； their incomprehensible blue tights； and
their short blue over…shirts with badges or characters in white
upon them； tearing along； their yellow faces streaming with
perspiration； laughing； shouting； and avoiding collisions by a mere
shave。
After a visit to the Consulate I entered a kuruma and； with two
ladies in two more； was bowled along at a furious pace by a
laughing little mannikin down Main Streeta narrow； solid； well…
paved street with well…made side walks； kerb…stones； and gutters；
with iron lamp…posts； gas…lamps； and foreign shops all along its
lengthto this quiet hotel recommended by Sir Wyville Thomson；
which offers a refuge from the nasal twang of my fellow…voyagers；
who have all gone to the caravanserais on the Bund。 The host is a
Frenchman； but he relies on a Chinaman； the servants are Japanese
〃boys〃 in Japanese clothes； and there is a Japanese 〃groom of the
chambers〃 in faultless English costume； who perfectly appals me by
the elaborate politeness of his manner。
Almost as soon as I arrived I was obliged to go in search of Mr。
Fraser's office in the settlement； I say SEARCH； for there are no
names on the streets； where there are numbers they have no
sequence； and I met no Europeans on foot to help me in my
difficulty。 Yokohama does not improve on further acquaintance。 It
has a dead…alive look。 It has irregularity without
picturesqueness； and the grey sky； grey sea； grey houses； and grey
roofs； look harmoniously dull。 No foreign money except the Mexican
dollar passes in Japan； and Mr。 Fraser's compradore soon
metamorphosed my English gold into Japanese satsu or paper money； a
bundle of yen nearly at par just now with the dollar； packets of
50； 20； and 10 sen notes； and some rouleaux of very neat copper
coins。 The initiated recognise the different denominations of
paper money at a glance by their differing colours and sizes； but
at present they are a distracting mystery to me。 The notes are
pieces of stiff paper with Chinese characters at the corners； near
which； with exceptionally good eyes or a magnifying glass； one can
discern an English word denoting the value。 They are very neatly
executed； and are ornamented with the chrysanthemum crest of the
Mikado and the interlaced dragons of the Empire。
I long to get away into real Japan。 Mr。 Wilkinson； H。B。M。's acting
consul； called yesterday； and was extremely kind。 He thinks that
my plan for travelling in the interior is rather too ambitious； but
that it is perfectly safe for a lady to travel alone； and agrees
with everybody else in thinking that legions of fleas and the
miserable horses are the great drawbacks of Japanese travelling。
I。 L。 B。
LETTER II
Sir Harry ParkesAn 〃Ambassador's Carriage〃Cart Coolies。
YOKOHAMA； May 22。
To…day has been spent in making new acquaintances； instituting a
search for a servant and a pony； receiving many offers of help；
asking questions and receiving from different people answers which
directly contradict each other。 Hours are early。 Thirteen people
called on me before noon。 Ladies drive themselves about the town
in small pony carriages attended by running grooms called bettos。
The foreign merchants keep kurumas constantly standing at their
doors； finding a willing； intelligent coolie much more serviceable
than a lazy； fractious； capricious Japanese pony； and even the
dignity of an 〃Ambassador Extraordinary and Minister
Plenipotentiary〃 is not above such a lowly conveyance； as I have
seen to…day。 My last visitors were Sir Harry and Lady Parkes； who
brought sunshine and kindliness into the room； and left it behind
them。 Sir Harry is a young…looking man scarcely in middle life；
slight； active； fair； blue…eyed； a thorough Saxon； with sunny hair
and a sunny smile； a sunshiny geniality in his manner； and bearing
no trace in his appearance of his thirty years of service in the
East； his sufferings in the prison at Peking； and the various
attempts upon his life in Japan。 He and Lady Parkes were most
truly kind； and encourage me so heartily in my largest projects for
travelling in the interior； that I shall start as soon as I have
secured a servant。 When they went away they jumped into kurumas；
and it was most amusing to see the representative of England
hurried down the street in a perambulator with a tandem of coolies。
As I look out of the window I see heavy； two…wheeled man…carts
drawn and pushed by four men each； on which nearly all goods；
stones for building； and all else； are carried。 The two men who
pull press with hands and thighs against a cross…bar at the end of
a heavy pole； and the two who push apply their shoulders to beams
which project behind； using their thick； smoothly…shaven skulls as
the motive power when they push their heavy loads uphill。 Their
cry is impressive and melancholy。 They draw incredible loads； but；
as if the toil which often makes every breath a groan or a gasp
were not enough； they shout incessantly with a coarse； guttural
grunt； something like Ha huida； Ho huida； wa ho； Ha huida； etc。
I。 L。 B。
LETTER III
Yedo and TokiyoThe Yokohama RailroadThe Effect of MisfitsThe
Plain of YedoPersonal PeculiaritiesFirst Impressions of Tokiyo…
…H。 B。 M。's LegationAn English Home。
H。B。M。's LEGATION； YEDO； May 24。
I have dated my letter Yedo； according to the usage of the British
Legation； but popularly the new name of Tokiyo； or Eastern Capital；
is used； Kiyoto； the Mikado's former residence； having received the
name of Saikio； or Western Capital； though it has now no claim to
be regarded as a capital at all。 Yedo belongs to the old regime
and the Shogunate； Tokiyo to the new regime and the Restoration；
with their history of ten years。 It would seem an incongruity to
travel to Yedo by railway； but quite proper when the destination is
Tokiyo。
The journey between the two cities is performed in an hour by an
admirable； well…metalled； double…track railroad； 18 miles long；
with iron bridges； neat stations； and substantial roomy termini；
built by E