gaps between the boards； and； as the damp earth is only 18 inches
or 2 feet below； emanations of all kinds enter the mats and pass
into the rooms。
The houses in this region （and I believe everywhere） are
hermetically sealed at night； both in summer and winter； the amado；
which are made without ventilators； literally boxing them in； so
that； unless they are falling to pieces； which is rarely the case；
none of the air vitiated by the breathing of many persons； by the
emanations from their bodies and clothing； by the miasmata produced
by defective domestic arrangements； and by the fumes from charcoal
hibachi； can ever be renewed。 Exercise is seldom taken from
choice； and； unless the women work in the fields； they hang over
charcoal fumes the whole day for five months of the year； engaged
in interminable processes of cooking； or in the attempt to get
warm。 Much of the food of the peasantry is raw or half…raw salt
fish； and vegetables rendered indigestible by being coarsely
pickled； all bolted with the most marvellous rapidity； as if the
one object of life were to rush through a meal in the shortest
possible time。 The married women look as if they had never known
youth； and their skin is apt to be like tanned leather。 At
Kayashima I asked the house…master's wife； who looked about fifty；
how old she was （a polite question in Japan）； and she replied
twenty…twoone of many similar surprises。 Her boy was five years
old； and was still unweaned。
This digression disposes of one aspect of the population。 ｛11｝
LETTER XII（Concluded）
A Japanese FerryA Corrugated RoadThe Pass of SannoVarious
VegetationAn Unattractive UndergrowthPreponderance of Men。
We changed horses at Tajima； formerly a daimiyo's residence； and；
for a Japanese town； rather picturesque。 It makes and exports
clogs； coarse pottery； coarse lacquer； and coarse baskets。
After travelling through rice…fields varying from thirty yards
square to a quarter of an acre； with the tops of the dykes utilised
by planting dwarf beans along them； we came to a large river； the
Arakai； along whose affluents we had been tramping for two days；
and； after passing through several filthy villages； thronged with
filthy and industrious inhabitants； crossed it in a scow。 High
forks planted securely in the bank on either side sustained a rope
formed of several strands of the wistaria knotted together。 One
man hauled on this hand over hand； another poled at the stern； and
the rapid current did the rest。 In this fashion we have crossed
many rivers subsequently。 Tariffs of charges are posted at all
ferries； as well as at all bridges where charges are made； and a
man sits in an office to receive the money。
The country was really very beautiful。 The views were wider and
finer than on the previous days； taking in great sweeps of peaked
mountains； wooded to their summits； and from the top of the Pass of
Sanno the clustered peaks were glorified into unearthly beauty in a
golden mist of evening sunshine。 I slept at a house combining silk
farm； post office； express office； and daimiyo's rooms； at the
hamlet of Ouchi； prettily situated in a valley with mountainous
surroundings； and； leaving early on the following morning； had a
very grand ride； passing in a crateriform cavity the pretty little
lake of Oyake； and then ascending the magnificent pass of Ichikawa。
We turned off what； by ironical courtesy； is called the main road；
upon a villainous track； consisting of a series of lateral
corrugations； about a foot broad； with depressions between them
more than a foot deep； formed by the invariable treading of the
pack…horses in each other's footsteps。 Each hole was a quagmire of
tenacious mud； the ascent of 2400 feet was very steep； and the mago
adjured the animals the whole time with Hai！ Hai！ Hai！ which is
supposed to suggest to them that extreme caution is requisite。
Their shoes were always coming untied； and they wore out two sets
in four miles。 The top of the pass； like that of a great many
others； is a narrow ridge； on the farther side of which the track
dips abruptly into a tremendous ravine； along whose side we
descended for a mile or so in company with a river whose
reverberating thunder drowned all attempts at speech。 A glorious
view it was； looking down between the wooded precipices to a
rolling wooded plain； lying in depths of indigo shadow； bounded by
ranges of wooded mountains； and overtopped by heights heavily
splotched with snow！ The vegetation was significant of a milder
climate。 The magnolia and bamboo re…appeared； and tropical ferns
mingled with the beautiful blue hydrangea； the yellow Japan lily；
and the great blue campanula。 There was an ocean of trees
entangled with a beautiful trailer （Actinidia polygama） with a
profusion of white leaves； which； at a distance； look like great
clusters of white blossoms。 But the rank undergrowth of the
forests of this region is not attractive。 Many of its component
parts deserve the name of weeds； being gawky； ragged umbels； coarse
docks； rank nettles； and many other things which I don't know； and
never wish to see again。 Near the end of this descent my mare took
the bit between her teeth and carried me at an ungainly gallop into
the beautifully situated； precipitous village of Ichikawa； which is
absolutely saturated with moisture by the spray of a fine waterfall
which tumbles through the middle of it； and its trees and road…side
are green with the Protococcus viridis。 The Transport Agent there
was a woman。 Women keep yadoyas and shops； and cultivate farms as
freely as men。 Boards giving the number of inhabitants； male and
female； and the number of horses and bullocks； are put up in each
village； and I noticed in Ichikawa； as everywhere hitherto； that
men preponderate。 ｛12｝ I。 L。 B。
LETTER XIII
The Plain of WakamatsuLight CostumeThe Takata CrowdA Congress
of SchoolmastersTimidity of a CrowdBad RoadsVicious Horses
Mountain SceneryA Picturesque InnSwallowing a Fish…bone
Poverty and SuicideAn Inn…kitchenEngland Unknown！My Breakfast
Disappears。
KURUMATOGE； June 30。
A short ride took us from Ichikawa to a plain about eleven miles
broad by eighteen long。 The large town of Wakamatsu stands near
its southern end； and it is sprinkled with towns and villages。 The
great lake of Iniwashiro is not far off。 The plain is rich and
fertile。 In the distance the steep roofs of its villages； with
their groves； look very picturesque。 As usual not a fence or gate
is to be seen； or any other hedge than the tall one used as a
screen for the dwellings of the richer farmers。
Bad roads and bad horses detracted from my enjoyment。 One hour of
a good horse would have carried me across the plain； as it was；
seven weary hours were expended upon it。 The day degenerated； and
closed in still； hot rain； the air was stifling and electric； the
saddle slipped constantly from being too big； the shoes were more
than usually troublesome； the horseflies tormented； and the men and
horses crawled。 The rice…fields were undergoing a second process
of puddling； and many of the men engaged in it wore only a hat； and
a fan attached to the girdle。
An avenue of cryptomeria and two handsome and somewhat gilded
Buddhist temples denoted the approach to a place of some
importance； and such Takata is； as being a large town with a
considerable trade in silk； rope； and minjin； and the residence of
one of the higher officials of the ken or prefecture。 The street
is a mile long； and every house is a shop。 The general aspect is
mean and forlorn。 In these little…travelled districts； as soon as
one reaches the margin of a town； the first man one meets turns and
flies down the street； calling out the Japanese equivalent of
〃Here's a foreigner！〃 and soon blind and seeing； old and young；
clothed and naked； gather together。 At the yadoya the crowd
assembled in such force that the house…master removed me to some
pretty rooms in a garden； but then the adults climbed on the house…
roofs which overlooked it； and the children on a palisade at the
end； which broke down under their weight； and admitted the whole
inundation； so that I had to close the shoji； with the fatiguing
consciousness during the whole time of nominal rest of a multitude
surging outside。 Then five policemen in black alpaca frock…coats
and white trousers invaded my precarious privacy； desiring to see
my passporta demand never made before except where I halted for
the night。 In their European clothes they cannot bow with Japanese
punctiliousness； but they were very polite； and expressed great
annoyance at the crowd； and dispersed it； but they had hardly
disappeared when it gathered again。 When I went out I found fully
1000 people helping me to realise how the crowded cities of Judea
sent forth people clothed much as these are when the Miracle…Worker
from Galilee arrived； but not what the fatigue of the crowding and
buzzing must have been to One who had been preaching and working
during the long day。 These Japanese crowds； however； are quiet and
gentle； and never press rudely upon one。 I could not find it in my
heart to complain of them except to you。 Four of the policemen
returned； and escorted me to the outskirts of the town。 The noise
made by 1000 people shuffling along in clogs is like the clatter of
a hail…storm。
After this there was a dismal tramp of five hours through rice…
fields。 The moist climate and the fatigue of this manner of
travelling are deteriorating my health； and the pain in my spine；
which has been daily increasing； was so severe that I could neither
ride nor walk for more than twenty minutes at a time； and the pace
was so slow that it was six when we reached Bange； a commercial
town of 5000 people； literally in the rice swamp； mean； filthy；
damp； and decaying； and full of an overpowering stench from black；
slimy ditches。 The mercury was 84 degrees； and hot rain fell fast
through the motionless air。 We dismounted in a shed full of bales
of dried fish； which gave off an overpowering odour； and wet and
dirty people crowded in to stare at the foreigner till the air
seemed unbreathable。
But there were signs of progress