dirty people crowded in to stare at the foreigner till the air
seemed unbreathable。
But there were signs of progress。 A three days' congress of
schoolmasters was being held； candidates for vacant situations were
being examined； there were lengthy educational discussions going
on； specially on the subject of the value of the Chinese classics
as a part of education； and every inn was crowded。
Bange was malarious： there was so much malarious fever that the
Government had sent additional medical assistance； the hills were
only a ri off； and it seemed essential to go on。 But not a horse
could be got till 10 p。m。； the road was worse than the one I had
travelled； the pain became more acute； and I more exhausted； and I
was obliged to remain。 Then followed a weary hour； in which the
Express Agent's five emissaries were searching for a room； and
considerably after dark I found myself in a rambling old over…
crowded yadoya； where my room was mainly built on piles above
stagnant water； and the mosquitoes were in such swarms as to make
the air dense； and after a feverish and miserable night I was glad
to get up early and depart。
Fully 2000 people had assembled。 After I was mounted I was on the
point of removing my Dollond from the case； which hung on the
saddle horn； when a regular stampede occurred； old and young
running as fast as they possibly could； children being knocked down
in the haste of their elders。 Ito said that they thought I was
taking out a pistol to frighten them； and I made him explain what
the object really was； for they are a gentle； harmless people； whom
one would not annoy without sincere regret。 In many European
countries； and certainly in some parts of our own； a solitary lady…
traveller in a foreign dress would be exposed to rudeness； insult；
and extortion； if not to actual danger； but I have not met with a
single instance of incivility or real overcharge； and there is no
rudeness even about the crowding。 The mago are anxious that I
should not get wet or be frightened； and very scrupulous in seeing
that all straps and loose things are safe at the end of the
journey； and； instead of hanging about asking for gratuities； or
stopping to drink and gossip； they quickly unload the horses； get a
paper from the Transport Agent； and go home。 Only yesterday a
strap was missing； and； though it was after dark； the man went back
a ri for it； and refused to take some sen which I wished to give
him； saying he was responsible for delivering everything right at
the journey's end。 They are so kind and courteous to each other；
which is very pleasing。 Ito is not pleasing or polite in his
manner to me； but when he speaks to his own people he cannot free
himself from the shackles of etiquette； and bows as profoundly and
uses as many polite phrases as anybody else。
In an hour the malarious plain was crossed； and we have been among
piles of mountains ever since。 The infamous road was so slippery
that my horse fell several times； and the baggage horse； with Ito
upon him； rolled head over heels； sending his miscellaneous pack in
all directions。 Good roads are really the most pressing need of
Japan。 It would be far better if the Government were to enrich the
country by such a remunerative outlay as making passable roads for
the transport of goods through the interior； than to impoverish it
by buying ironclads in England； and indulging in expensive western
vanities。
That so horrible a road should have so good a bridge as that by
which we crossed the broad river Agano is surprising。 It consists
of twelve large scows； each one secured to a strong cable of
plaited wistari； which crosses the river at a great height； so as
to allow of the scows and the plank bridge which they carry rising
and falling with the twelve feet variation of the water。
Ito's disaster kept him back for an hour； and I sat meanwhile on a
rice sack in the hamlet of Katakado； a collection of steep…roofed
houses huddled together in a height above the Agano。 It was one
mob of pack…horses； over 200 of them； biting； squealing； and
kicking。 Before I could dismount； one vicious creature struck at
me violently； but only hit the great wooden stirrup。 I could
hardly find any place out of the range of hoofs or teeth。 My
baggage horse showed great fury after he was unloaded。 He attacked
people right and left with his teeth； struck out savagely with his
fore feet； lashed out with his hind ones； and tried to pin his
master up against a wall。
Leaving this fractious scene we struck again through the mountains。
Their ranges were interminable； and every view from every fresh
ridge grander than the last； for we were now near the lofty range
of the Aidzu Mountains； and the double…peaked Bandaisan； the abrupt
precipices of Itoyasan； and the grand mass of Miyojintake in the
south…west； with their vast snow…fields and snow…filled ravines；
were all visible at once。 These summits of naked rock or dazzling
snow； rising above the smothering greenery of the lower ranges into
a heaven of delicious blue； gave exactly that individuality and
emphasis which； to my thinking； Japanese scenery usually lacks。
Riding on first； I arrived alone at the little town of Nozawa； to
encounter the curiosity of a crowd； and； after a rest； we had a
very pleasant walk of three miles along the side of a ridge above a
rapid river with fine grey cliffs on its farther side； with a grand
view of the Aidzu giants； violet coloured in a golden sunset。
At dusk we came upon the picturesque village of Nojiri； on the
margin of a rice valley； but I shrank from spending Sunday in a
hole； and； having spied a solitary house on the very brow of a hill
1500 feet higher； I dragged out the information that it was a tea…
house； and came up to it。 It took three…quarters of an hour to
climb the series of precipitous zigzags by which this remarkable
pass is surmounted； darkness came on； accompanied by thunder and
lightning； and just as we arrived a tremendous zigzag of blue flame
lit up the house and its interior； showing a large group sitting
round a wood fire； and then all was thick darkness again。 It had a
most startling effect。 This house is magnificently situated；
almost hanging over the edge of the knife…like ridge of the pass of
Kuruma； on which it is situated。 It is the only yadoya I have been
at from which there has been any view。 The villages are nearly
always in the valleys； and the best rooms are at the back； and have
their prospects limited by the paling of the conventional garden。
If it were not for the fleas； which are here in legions； I should
stay longer； for the view of the Aidzu snow is delicious； and； as
there are only two other houses； one can ramble without being
mobbed。
In one a child two and a half years old swallowed a fish…bone last
night； and has been suffering and crying all day； and the grief of
the mother so won Ito's sympathy that he took me to see her。 She
had walked up and down with it for eighteen hours； but never
thought of looking into its throat； and was very unwilling that I
should do so。 The bone was visible； and easily removed with a
crochet needle。 An hour later the mother sent a tray with a
quantity of cakes and coarse confectionery upon it as a present；
with the piece of dried seaweed which always accompanies a gift。
Before night seven people with sore legs applied for 〃advice。〃 The
sores were all superficial and all alike； and their owners said
that they had been produced by the incessant rubbing of the bites
of ants。
On this summer day the country looks as prosperous as it is
beautiful； and one would not think that acute poverty could exist
in the steep…roofed village of Nojiri； which nestles at the foot of
the hill； but two hempen ropes dangling from a cryptomeria just
below tell the sad tale of an elderly man who hanged himself two
days ago； because he was too poor to provide for a large family；
and the house…mistress and Ito tell me that when a man who has a
young family gets too old or feeble for work he often destroys
himself。
My hostess is a widow with a family； a good…natured； bustling
woman； with a great love of talk。 All day her house is open all
round； having literally no walls。 The roof and solitary upper room
are supported on posts； and my ladder almost touches the kitchen
fire。 During the day…time the large matted area under the roof has
no divisions； and groups of travellers and magos lie about； for
every one who has toiled up either side of Kurumatoge takes a cup
of 〃tea with eating；〃 and the house…mistress is busy the whole day。
A big well is near the fire。 Of course there is no furniture； but
a shelf runs under the roof； on which there is a Buddhist god…
house； with two black idols in it； one of them being that much…
worshipped divinity； Daikoku； the god of wealth。 Besides a rack
for kitchen utensils； there is only a stand on which are six large
brown dishes with food for salesalt shell…fish； in a black
liquid； dried trout impaled on sticks； sea slugs in soy； a paste
made of pounded roots； and green cakes made of the slimy river
confervae； pressed and driedall ill…favoured and unsavoury
viands。 This afternoon a man without clothes was treading flour
paste on a mat； a traveller in a blue silk robe was lying on the
floor smoking； and five women in loose attire； with elaborate
chignons and blackened teeth； were squatting round the fire。 At
the house…mistress's request I wrote a eulogistic description of
the view from her house； and read it in English； Ito translating
it； to the very great satisfaction of the assemblage。 Then I was
asked to write on four fans。 The woman has never heard of England。
It is not 〃a name to conjure with〃 in these wilds。 Neither has she
heard of America。 She knows of Russia as a great power； and； of
course； of China； but there her knowledge ends； though she has been
at Tokiyo and Kiyoto。
July 1。I was just falling asleep last night； in spite of
mosquitoes and fleas； when I was roused by much talking and loud
outcries of poultry； and Ito； carrying a screaming； refractory hen；
and a man and woman whom he had with difficulty bribed to part with
it； appeared by my