his property。 He had no rice； so I indulged in a feast of
delicious cucumbers。 I never saw so many eaten as in that
district。 Children gnaw them all day long； and even babies on
their mothers' backs suck them with avidity。 Just now they are
sold for a sen a dozen。
It is a mistake to arrive at a yadoya after dark。 Even if the best
rooms are not full it takes fully an hour to get my food and the
room ready； and meanwhile I cannot employ my time usefully because
of the mosquitoes。 There was heavy rain all night； accompanied by
the first wind that I have heard since landing； and the fitful
creaking of the pines and the drumming from the shrine made me glad
to get up at sunrise； or rather at daylight； for there has not been
a sunrise since I came； or a sunset either。 That day we travelled
by Sekki to Kawaguchi in kurumas； i。e。 we were sometimes bumped
over stones； sometimes deposited on the edge of a quagmire； and
asked to get out； and sometimes compelled to walk for two or three
miles at a time along the infamous bridle…track above the river
Arai； up which two men could hardly push and haul an empty vehicle；
and； as they often had to lift them bodily and carry them for some
distance； I was really glad when we reached the village of
Kawaguchi to find that they could go no farther； though； as we
could only get one horse； I had to walk the last stage in a torrent
of rain； poorly protected by my paper waterproof cloak。
We are now in the midst of the great central chain of the Japanese
mountains； which extends almost without a break for 900 miles； and
is from 40 to 100 miles in width； broken up into interminable
ranges traversable only by steep passes from 1000 to 5000 feet in
height； with innumerable rivers； ravines； and valleys； the heights
and ravines heavily timbered； the rivers impetuous and liable to
freshets； and the valleys invariably terraced for rice。 It is in
the valleys that the villages are found； and regions more isolated
I have never seen； shut out by bad roads from the rest of Japan。
The houses are very poor； the summer costume of the men consists of
the maro only； and that of the women of trousers with an open
shirt； and when we reached Kurosawa last night it had dwindled to
trousers only。 There is little traffic； and very few horses are
kept； one； two； or three constituting the live stock of a large
village。 The shops； such as they are； contain the barest
necessaries of life。 Millet and buckwheat rather than rice； with
the universal daikon； are the staples of diet The climate is wet in
summer and bitterly cold in winter。 Even now it is comfortless
enough for the people to come in wet； just to warm the tips of
their fingers at the irori； stifled the while with the stinging
smoke； while the damp wind flaps the torn paper of the windows
about； and damp draughts sweep the ashes over the tatami until the
house is hermetically sealed at night。 These people never know
anything of what we regard as comfort； and in the long winter； when
the wretched bridle…tracks are blocked by snow and the freezing
wind blows strong； and the families huddle round the smoky fire by
the doleful glimmer of the andon； without work； books； or play； to
shiver through the long evenings in chilly dreariness； and herd
together for warmth at night like animals； their condition must be
as miserable as anything short of grinding poverty can make it。
I saw things at their worst that night as I tramped into the hamlet
of Numa； down whose sloping street a swollen stream was running；
which the people were banking out of their houses。 I was wet and
tired； and the woman at the one wretched yadoya met me； saying；
〃I'm sorry it's very dirty and quite unfit for so honourable a
guest；〃 and she was right； for the one room was up a ladder； the
windows were in tatters； there was no charcoal for a hibachi； no
eggs； and the rice was so dirty and so full of a small black seed
as to be unfit to eat。 Worse than all； there was no Transport
Office； the hamlet did not possess a horse； and it was only by
sending to a farmer five miles off； and by much bargaining； that I
got on the next morning。 In estimating the number of people in a
given number of houses in Japan； it is usual to multiply the houses
by five； but I had the curiosity to walk through Numa and get Ito
to translate the tallies which hang outside all Japanese houses
with the names； number； and sexes of their inmates； and in twenty…
four houses there were 307 people！ In some there were four
familiesthe grand…parents； the parents； the eldest son with his
wife and family； and a daughter or two with their husbands and
children。 The eldest son； who inherits the house and land； almost
invariably brings his wife to his father's house； where she often
becomes little better than a slave to her mother…in…law。 By rigid
custom she literally forsakes her own kindred； and her 〃filial
duty〃 is transferred to her husband's mother； who often takes a
dislike to her； and instigates her son to divorce her if she has no
children。 My hostess had induced her son to divorce his wife； and
she could give no better reason for it than that she was lazy。
The Numa people； she said； had never seen a foreigner； so； though
the rain still fell heavily； they were astir in the early morning。
They wanted to hear me speak； so I gave my orders to Ito in public。
Yesterday was a most toilsome day； mainly spent in stumbling up and
sliding down the great passes of Futai； Takanasu； and Yenoiki； all
among forest…covered mountains； deeply cleft by forest…choked
ravines； with now and then one of the snowy peaks of Aidzu breaking
the monotony of the ocean of green。 The horses' shoes were tied
and untied every few minutes； and we made just a mile an hour！ At
last we were deposited in a most unpromising place in the hamlet of
Tamagawa； and were told that a rice merchant； after waiting for
three days； had got every horse in the country。 At the end of two
hours' chaffering one baggage coolie was produced； some of the
things were put on the rice horses； and a steed with a pack…saddle
was produced for me in the shape of a plump and pretty little cow；
which carried me safely over the magnificent pass of Ori and down
to the town of Okimi； among rice…fields； where； in a drowning rain；
I was glad to get shelter with a number of coolies by a wood…fire
till another pack…cow was produced； and we walked on through the
rice…fields and up into the hills again to Kurosawa； where I had
intended to remain； but there was no inn； and the farm…house where
they take in travellers； besides being on the edge of a malarious
pond； and being dark and full of stinging smoke； was so awfully
dirty and full of living creatures； that； exhausted as I was； I was
obliged to go on。 But it was growing dark； there was no Transport
Office； and for the first time the people were very slightly
extortionate； and drove Ito nearly to his wits' end。 The peasants
do not like to be out after dark； for they are afraid of ghosts and
all sorts of devilments； and it was difficult to induce them to
start so late in the evening。
There was not a house clean enough to rest in； so I sat on a stone
and thought about the people for over an hour。 Children with
scald…head； scabies； and sore eyes swarmed。 Every woman carried a
baby on her back； and every child who could stagger under one
carried one too。 Not one woman wore anything but cotton trousers。
One woman reeled about 〃drunk and disorderly。〃 Ito sat on a stone
hiding his face in his hands； and when I asked him if he were ill；
he replied in a most lamentable voice； 〃I don't know what I am to
do； I'm so ashamed for you to see such things！〃 The boy is only
eighteen； and I pitied him。 I asked him if women were often drunk；
and he said they were in Yokohama； but they usually kept in their
houses。 He says that when their husbands give them money to pay
bills at the end of a month； they often spend it in sake； and that
they sometimes get sake in shops and have it put down as rice or
tea。 〃The old； old story！〃 I looked at the dirt and barbarism；
and asked if this were the Japan of which I had read。 Yet a woman
in this unseemly costume firmly refused to take the 2 or 3 sen
which it is usual to leave at a place where you rest； because she
said that I had had water and not tea； and after I had forced it on
her； she returned it to Ito； and this redeeming incident sent me
away much comforted。
From Numa the distance here is only 1。5 ri； but it is over the
steep pass of Honoki； which is ascended and descended by hundreds
of rude stone steps； not pleasant in the dark。 On this pass I saw
birches for the first time； at its foot we entered Yamagata ken by
a good bridge； and shortly reached this village； in which an
unpromising…looking farm…house is the only accommodation； but
though all the rooms but two are taken up with silk…worms； those
two are very good and look upon a miniature lake and rockery。 The
one objection to my room is that to get either in or out of it I
must pass through the other； which is occupied by five tobacco
merchants who are waiting for transport； and who while away the
time by strumming on that instrument of dismay； the samisen。 No
horses or cows can be got for me； so I am spending the day quietly
here； rather glad to rest； for I am much exhausted。 When I am
suffering much from my spine Ito always gets into a fright and
thinks I am going to die； as he tells me when I am better； but
shows his anxiety by a short； surly manner； which is most
disagreeable。 He thinks we shall never get through the interior！
Mr。 Brunton's excellent map fails in this region； so it is only by
fixing on the well…known city of Yamagata and devising routes to it
that we get on。 Half the evening is spent in consulting Japanese
maps； if we can get them； and in questioning the house…master and
Transport Agent； and any chance travellers； but the people know
nothing beyond the distance of a few ri； and the agents seldom tell
one anything beyond the next stage。 When I inquire about the
〃unbeaten tracks〃 that I wish to take； the answers are； 〃It's an
awful road through mountains；〃 or 〃There are many bad