the same courteous and agreeable young doctor who was stationed at
Innai during the prevalence of kak'ke； and he invited me to visit
the hospital at Kubota； of which he is junior physician； and told
Ito of a restaurant at which 〃foreign food〃 can be obtaineda
pleasant prospect； of which he is always reminding me。
Travelling along a very narrow road； I as usual first； we met a man
leading a prisoner by a rope； followed by a policeman。 As soon as
my runner saw the latter he fell down on his face so suddenly in
the shafts as nearly to throw me out； at the same time trying to
wriggle into a garment which he had carried on the crossbar； while
the young men who were drawing the two kurumas behind； crouching
behind my vehicle； tried to scuttle into their clothes。 I never
saw such a picture of abjectness as my man presented。 He trembled
from head to foot； and illustrated that queer phrase often heard in
Scotch Presbyterian prayers； 〃Lay our hands on our mouths and our
mouths in the dust。〃 He literally grovelled in the dust； and with
every sentence that the policeman spoke raised his head a little；
to bow it yet more deeply than before。 It was all because he had
no clothes on。 I interceded for him as the day was very hot； and
the policeman said he would not arrest him； as he should otherwise
have done； because of the inconvenience that it would cause to a
foreigner。 He was quite an elderly man； and never recovered his
spirits； but； as soon as a turn of the road took us out of the
policeman's sight； the two younger men threw their clothes into the
air and gambolled in the shafts； shrieking with laughter！
On reaching Shingoji； being too tired to go farther； I was dismayed
to find nothing but a low； dark； foul…smelling room； enclosed only
by dirty shoji； in which to spend Sunday。 One side looked into a
little mildewed court； with a slimy growth of Protococcus viridis；
and into which the people of another house constantly came to
stare。 The other side opened on the earthen passage into the
street； where travellers wash their feet； the third into the
kitchen； and the fourth into the front room。 Even before dark it
was alive with mosquitoes； and the fleas hopped on the mats like
sand…flies。 There were no eggs； nothing but rice and cucumbers。
At five on Sunday morning I saw three faces pressed against the
outer lattice； and before evening the shoji were riddled with
finger…holes； at each of which a dark eye appeared。 There was a
still； fine rain all day； with the mercury at 82 degrees； and the
heat； darkness； and smells were difficult to endure。 In the
afternoon a small procession passed the house； consisting of a
decorated palanquin； carried and followed by priests； with capes
and stoles over crimson chasubles and white cassocks。 This ark；
they said； contained papers inscribed with the names of people and
the evils they feared； and the priests were carrying the papers to
throw them into the river。
I went to bed early as a refuge from mosquitoes； with the andon； as
usual； dimly lighting the room； and shut my eyes。 About nine I
heard a good deal of whispering and shuffling； which continued for
some time； and； on looking up； saw opposite to me about 40 men；
women； and children （Ito says 100）； all staring at me； with the
light upon their faces。 They had silently removed three of the
shoji next the passage！ I called Ito loudly； and clapped my hands；
but they did not stir till he came； and then they fled like a flock
of sheep。 I have patiently； and even smilingly； borne all out…of…
doors crowding and curiosity； but this kind of intrusion is
unbearable； and I sent Ito to the police station； much against his
will； to beg the police to keep the people out of the house； as the
house…master was unable to do so。 This morning； as I was finishing
dressing； a policeman appeared in my room； ostensibly to apologise
for the behaviour of the people； but in reality to have a
privileged stare at me； and； above all； at my stretcher and
mosquito net； from which he hardly took his eyes。 Ito says he
could make a yen a day by showing them！ The policeman said that
the people had never seen a foreigner。
I。 L。 B。
LETTER XXI
The Necessity of FirmnessPerplexing MisrepresentationsGliding
with the StreamSuburban ResidencesThe Kubota HospitalA Formal
ReceptionThe Normal School。
KUBOTA； July 23。
I arrived here on Monday afternoon by the river Omono； what would
have been two long days' journey by land having been easily
accomplished in nine hours by water。 This was an instance of
forming a plan wisely； and adhering to it resolutely！ Firmness in
travelling is nowhere more necessary than in Japan。 I decided some
time ago； from Mr。 Brunton's map； that the Omono must be navigable
from Shingoji； and a week ago told Ito to inquire about it； but at
each place difficulties have been started。 There was too much
water； there was too little； there were bad rapids； there were
shallows； it was too late in the year； all the boats which had
started lately were lying aground； but at one of the ferries I saw
in the distance a merchandise boat going down； and told Ito I
should go that way and no other。 On arriving at Shingoji they said
it was not on the Omono at all； but on a stream with some very bad
rapids； in which boats are broken to pieces。 Lastly； they said
there was no boat； but on my saying that I would send ten miles for
one； a small； flat…bottomed scow was produced by the Transport
Agent； into which Ito； the luggage； and myself accurately fitted。
Ito sententiously observed； 〃Not one thing has been told us on our
journey which has turned out true！〃 This is not an exaggeration。
The usual crowd did not assemble round the door； but preceded me to
the river； where it covered the banks and clustered in the trees。
Four policemen escorted me down。 The voyage of forty…two miles was
delightful。 The rapids were a mere ripple； the current was strong；
one boatman almost slept upon his paddle； the other only woke to
bale the boat when it was half…full of water； the shores were
silent and pretty； and almost without population till we reached
the large town of Araya； which straggles along a high bank for a
considerable distance； and after nine peaceful hours we turned off
from the main stream of the Omono just at the outskirts of Kubota；
and poled up a narrow； green river； fringed by dilapidated backs of
houses； boat…building yards； and rafts of timber on one side； and
dwelling…houses； gardens； and damp greenery on the other。 This
stream is crossed by very numerous bridges。
I got a cheerful upstairs room at a most friendly yadoya； and my
three days here have been fully occupied and very pleasant。
〃Foreign food〃a good beef…steak； an excellent curry； cucumbers；
and foreign salt and mustard； were at once obtained； and I felt my
〃eyes lightened〃 after partaking of them。
Kubota is a very attractive and purely Japanese town of 36；000
people； the capital of Akita ken。 A fine mountain； called
Taiheisan； rises above its fertile valley； and the Omono falls into
the Sea of Japan close to it。 It has a number of kurumas； but；
owing to heavy sand and the badness of the roads； they can only go
three miles in any direction。 It is a town of activity and brisk
trade； and manufactures a silk fabric in stripes of blue and black；
and yellow and black； much used for making hakama and kimonos； a
species of white silk crepe with a raised woof； which brings a high
price in Tokiyo shops； fusuma； and clogs。 Though it is a castle
town； it is free from the usual 〃deadly…lively〃 look； and has an
air of prosperity and comfort。 Though it has few streets of shops；
it covers a great extent of ground with streets and lanes of
pretty； isolated dwelling…houses； surrounded by trees； gardens； and
well…trimmed hedges； each garden entered by a substantial gateway。
The existence of something like a middle class with home privacy
and home life is suggested by these miles of comfortable 〃suburban
residences。〃 Foreign influence is hardly at all felt； there is not
a single foreigner in Government or any other employment； and even
the hospital was organised from the beginning by Japanese doctors。
This fact made me greatly desire to see it； but； on going there at
the proper hour for visitors； I was met by the Director with
courteous but vexatious denial。 No foreigner could see it； he
said； without sending his passport to the Governor and getting a
written order； so I complied with these preliminaries； and 8 a。m。
of the next day was fixed for my visit Ito； who is lazy about
interpreting for the lower orders； but exerts himself to the utmost
on such an occasion as this； went with me； handsomely clothed in
silk； as befitted an 〃Interpreter；〃 and surpassed all his former
efforts。
The Director and the staff of six physicians； all handsomely
dressed in silk； met me at the top of the stairs； and conducted me
to the management room； where six clerks were writing。 Here there
was a table； solemnly covered with a white cloth； and four chairs；
on which the Director； the Chief Physician； Ito； and I sat； and
pipes； tea； and sweetmeats； were produced。 After this； accompanied
by fifty medical students； whose intelligent looks promise well for
their success； we went round the hospital； which is a large two…
storied building in semi…European style； but with deep verandahs
all round。 The upper floor is used for class…rooms； and the lower
accommodates 100 patients； besides a number of resident students。
Ten is the largest number treated in any one room； and severe cases
are treated in separate rooms。 Gangrene has prevailed； and the
Chief Physician； who is at this time remodelling the hospital； has
closed some of the wards in consequence。 There is a Lock Hospital
under the same roof。 About fifty important operations are annually
performed under chloroform； but the people of Akita ken are very
conservative； and object to part with their limbs and to foreign
drugs。 This conservatism diminishes the number of patients。
The odour of carbolic acid pervaded the whole hospital； and there
were spray producers enough to satisfy Mr。 Lister！ At the request
of