write both the syllabaries。 For foreign rank or position he has
not an atom of reverence or value； but a great deal of both for
Japanese officialdom。 He despises the intellects of women； but
flirts in a town…bred fashion with the simple tea…house girls。
He is anxious to speak the very best English； and to say that a
word is slangy or common interdicts its use。 Sometimes； when the
weather is fine and things go smoothly； he is in an excellent and
communicative humour； and talks a good deal as we travel。 A few
days ago I remarked； 〃What a beautiful day this is！〃 and soon
after； note…book in hand； he said； 〃You say 'a beautiful day。' Is
that better English than 'a devilish fine day；' which most
foreigners say？〃 I replied that it was 〃common；〃 and 〃beautiful〃
has been brought out frequently since。 Again； 〃When you ask a
question you never say； 'What the d…l is it？' as other foreigners
do。 Is it proper for men to say it and not for women？〃 I told him
it was proper for neither； it was a very 〃common〃 word； and I saw
that he erased it from his note…book。 At first he always used
fellows for men； as； 〃Will you have one or two FELLOWS for your
kuruma？〃 〃FELLOWS and women。〃 At last he called the Chief
Physician of the hospital here a FELLOW； on which I told him that
it was slightly slangy； and at least 〃colloquial；〃 and for two days
he has scrupulously spoken of man and men。 To…day he brought a boy
with very sore eyes to see me； on which I exclaimed； 〃Poor little
fellow！〃 and this evening he said； 〃You called that boy a fellow； I
thought it was a bad word！〃 The habits of many of the Yokohama
foreigners have helped to obliterate any distinctions between right
and wrong； if he ever made any。 If he wishes to tell me that he
has seen a very tipsy man； he always says he has seen 〃a fellow as
drunk as an Englishman。〃 At Nikko I asked him how many legal wives
a man could have in Japan； and he replied； 〃Only one lawful one；
but as many others （mekake） as he can support； just as Englishmen
have。〃 He never forgets a correction。 Till I told him it was
slangy he always spoke of inebriated people as 〃tight；〃 and when I
gave him the words 〃tipsy；〃 〃drunk；〃 〃intoxicated；〃 he asked me
which one would use in writing good English； and since then he has
always spoken of people as 〃intoxicated。〃
He naturally likes large towns； and tries to deter me from taking
the 〃unbeaten tracks；〃 which I preferbut when he finds me
immovable； always concludes his arguments with the same formula；
〃Well； of course you can do as you like； it's all the same to me。〃
I do not think he cheats me to any extent。 Board； lodging； and
travelling expenses for us both are about 6s。 6d。 a day； and about
2s。 6d。 when we are stationary； and this includes all gratuities
and extras。 True； the board and lodging consist of tea； rice； and
eggs； a copper basin of water； an andon and an empty room； for；
though there are plenty of chickens in all the villages； the people
won't be bribed to sell them for killing； though they would gladly
part with them if they were to be kept to lay eggs。 Ito amuses me
nearly every night with stories of his unsuccessful attempts to
provide me with animal food。
The travelling is the nearest approach to 〃a ride on a rail〃 that I
have ever made。 I have now ridden； or rather sat； upon seventy…six
horses； all horrible。 They all stumble。 The loins of some are
higher than their shoulders； so that one slips forwards； and the
back…bones of all are ridgy。 Their hind feet grow into points
which turn up； and their hind legs all turn outwards； like those of
a cat； from carrying heavy burdens at an early age。 The same thing
gives them a roll in their gait； which is increased by their
awkward shoes。 In summer they feed chiefly on leaves； supplemented
with mashes of bruised beans； and instead of straw they sleep on
beds of leaves。 In their stalls their heads are tied 〃where their
tails should be；〃 and their fodder is placed not in a manger； but
in a swinging bucket。 Those used in this part of Japan are worth
from 15 to 30 yen。 I have not seen any overloading or ill…
treatment； they are neither kicked； nor beaten； nor threatened in
rough tones； and when they die they are decently buried； and have
stones placed over their graves。 It might be well if the end of a
worn…out horse were somewhat accelerated； but this is mainly a
Buddhist region； and the aversion to taking animal life is very
strong。 I。 L。 B。
LETTER XXIV
The Symbolism of SeaweedAfternoon VisitorsAn Infant ProdigyA
Feat in CaligraphyChild WorshipA Borrowed DressA Trousseau
House FurnitureThe Marriage Ceremony。
KUBOTA； July 25。
The weather at last gives a hope of improvement； and I think I
shall leave to…morrow。 I had written this sentence when Ito came
in to say that the man in the next house would like to see my
stretcher and mosquito net； and had sent me a bag of cakes with the
usual bit of seaweed attached； to show that it was a present。 The
Japanese believe themselves to be descended from a race of
fishermen； they are proud of it； and Yebis； the god of fishermen；
is one of the most popular of the household divinities。 The piece
of seaweed sent with a present to any ordinary person； and the
piece of dried fish…skin which accompanies a present to the Mikado；
record the origin of the race； and at the same time typify the
dignity of simple industry。
Of course I consented to receive the visitor； and with the mercury
at 84 degrees； five men； two boys； and five women entered my small；
low room； and after bowing to the earth three times； sat down on
the floor。 They had evidently come to spend the afternoon。 Trays
of tea and sweetmeats were handed round； and a labako…bon was
brought in； and they all smoked； as I had told Ito that all usual
courtesies were to be punctiliously performed。 They expressed
their gratification at seeing so 〃honourable〃 a traveller。 I
expressed mine at seeing so much of their 〃honourable〃 country。
Then we all bowed profoundly。 Then I laid Brunton's map on the
floor and showed them my route； showed them the Asiatic Society's
Transactions； and how we read from left to right； instead of from
top to bottom； showed them my knitting； which amazed them； and my
Berlin work； and then had nothing left。 Then they began to
entertain me； and I found that the real object of their visit was
to exhibit an 〃infant prodigy；〃 a boy of four； with a head shaven
all but a tuft on the top； a face of preternatural thoughtfulness
and gravity； and the self…possessed and dignified demeanour of an
elderly man。 He was dressed in scarlet silk hakama； and a dark；
striped； blue silk kimono； and fanned himself gracefully； looking
at everything as intelligently and courteously as the others。 To
talk child's talk to him； or show him toys； or try to amuse him；
would have been an insult。 The monster has taught himself to read
and write； and has composed poetry。 His father says that he never
plays； and understands everything just like a grown person。 The
intention was that I should ask him to write； and I did so。
It was a solemn performance。 A red blanket was laid in the middle
of the floor； with a lacquer writing…box upon it。 The creature
rubbed the ink with water on the inkstone； unrolled four rolls of
paper； five feet long； and inscribed them with Chinese characters；
nine inches long； of the most complicated kind； with firm and
graceful curves of his brush； and with the ease and certainty of
Giotto in turning his O。 He sealed them with his seal in
vermilion； bowed three times； and the performance was ended。
People get him to write kakemonos and signboards for them； and he
had earned 10 yen； or about 2 pounds； that day。 His father is
going to travel to Kiyoto with him； to see if any one under
fourteen can write as well。 I never saw such an exaggerated
instance of child worship。 Father； mother； friends； and servants；
treated him as if he were a prince。
The house…master； who is a most polite man； procured me an
invitation to the marriage of his niece； and I have just returned
from it。 He has three 〃wives〃 himself。 One keeps a yadoya in
Kiyoto； another in Morioka； and the third and youngest is with him
here。 From her limitless stores of apparel she chose what she
considered a suitable dress for mean under…dress of sage green
silk crepe； a kimono of soft； green； striped silk of a darker
shade； with a fold of white crepe； spangled with gold at the neck；
and a girdle of sage green corded silk； with the family badge here
and there upon it in gold。 I went with the house…master； Ito； to
his disgust； not being invited； and his absence was like the loss
of one of my senses； as I could not get any explanations till
afterwards。
The ceremony did not correspond with the rules laid down for
marriages in the books of etiquette that I have seen； but this is
accounted for by the fact that they were for persons of the samurai
class； while this bride and bridegroom； though the children of
well…to…do merchants； belong to the heimin。
In this case the trousseau and furniture were conveyed to the
bridegroom's house in the early morning； and I was allowed to go to
see them。 There were several girdles of silk embroidered with
gold； several pieces of brocaded silk for kimonos； several pieces
of silk crepe； a large number of made…up garments； a piece of white
silk； six barrels of wine or sake； and seven sorts of condiments。
Jewellery is not worn by women in Japan。
The furniture consisted of two wooden pillows； finely lacquered；
one of them containing a drawer for ornamental hairpins； some
cotton futons； two very handsome silk ones； a few silk cushions； a
lacquer workbox； a spinning…wheel； a lacquer rice bucket and ladle；
two ornamental iron kettles； various kitchen utensils； three bronze
hibachi； two tabako…bons； some lacquer trays； and zens； china
kettles； teapots； and cups； some lacquer rice bowls； two copper
basins； a few towels； some bamboo switches； and an inlaid lacquer
etagere。 As the things are all very handsome the parents must be
well off。 The sake is sent in accordance with rigid etiquette。
The bridegroom is twenty…two；