I。 L。 B。
LETTER XXVII
Good…tempered IntoxicationThe Effect of SunshineA tedious
AltercationEvening OccupationsNoisy TalkSocial Gathering
Unfair Comparisons。
SHIRASAWA； July 29。
Early this morning the rain…clouds rolled themselves up and
disappeared； and the bright blue sky looked as if it had been well
washed。 I had to wait till noon before the rivers became fordable；
and my day's journey is only seven miles； as it is not possible to
go farther till more of the water runs off。 We had very limp；
melancholy horses； and my mago was half…tipsy； and sang； talked；
and jumped the whole way。 Sake is frequently taken warm； and in
that state produces a very noisy but good…tempered intoxication。 I
have seen a good many intoxicated persons； but never one in the
least degree quarrelsome； and the effect very soon passes off；
leaving； however； an unpleasant nausea for two or three days as a
warning against excess。 The abominable concoctions known under the
names of beer； wine； and brandy； produce a bad…tempered and
prolonged intoxication； and delirium tremens； rarely known as a
result of sake drinking； is being introduced under their baleful
influence。
The sun shone gloriously and brightened the hill…girdled valley in
which Odate stands into positive beauty； with the narrow river
flinging its bright waters over green and red shingle； lighting it
up in glints among the conical hills； some richly wooded with
coniferae； and others merely covered with scrub； which were tumbled
about in picturesque confusion。 When Japan gets the sunshine； its
forest…covered hills and garden…like valleys are turned into
paradise。 In a journey of 600 miles there has hardly been a patch
of country which would not have been beautiful in sunlight。
We crossed five severe fords with the water half…way up the horses'
bodies； in one of which the strong current carried my mago off his
feet； and the horse towed him ashore； singing and capering； his
drunken glee nothing abated by his cold bath。 Everything is in a
state of wreck。 Several river channels have been formed in places
where there was only one； there is not a trace of the road for a
considerable distance； not a bridge exists for ten miles； and a
great tract of country is covered with boulders； uprooted trees；
and logs floated from the mountain sides。 Already； however； these
industrious peasants are driving piles； carrying soil for
embankments in creels on horses' backs； and making ropes of stones
to prevent a recurrence of the calamity。 About here the female
peasants wear for field…work a dress which pleases me much by its
suitabilitylight blue trousers； with a loose sack over them；
confined at the waist by a girdle。
On arriving here in much pain； and knowing that the road was not
open any farther； I was annoyed by a long and angry conversation
between the house…master and Ito； during which the horses were not
unloaded； and the upshot of it was that the man declined to give me
shelter； saying that the police had been round the week before
giving notice that no foreigner was to be received without first
communicating with the nearest police station； which； in this
instance； is three hours off。 I said that the authorities of Akita
ken could not by any local regulations override the Imperial edict
under which passports are issued； but he said he should be liable
to a fine and the withdrawal of his license if he violated the
rule。 No foreigner； he said； had ever lodged in Shirasawa； and I
have no doubt that he added that he hoped no foreigner would ever
seek lodgings again。 My passport was copied and sent off by
special runner； as I should have deeply regretted bringing trouble
on the poor man by insisting on my rights； and in much trepidation
he gave me a room open on one side to the village； and on another
to a pond； over which； as if to court mosquitoes； it is partially
built。 I cannot think how the Japanese can regard a hole full of
dirty water as an ornamental appendage to a house。
My hotel expenses （including Ito's） are less than 3s。 a…day； and in
nearly every place there has been a cordial desire that I should be
comfortable； and； considering that I have often put up in small；
rough hamlets off the great routes even of Japanese travel； the
accommodation； minus the fleas and the odours； has been
surprisingly excellent； not to be equalled； I should think； in
equally remote regions in any country in the world。
This evening； here； as in thousands of other villages； the men came
home from their work； ate their food； took their smoke； enjoyed
their children； carried them about； watched their games； twisted
straw ropes； made straw sandals； split bamboo； wove straw rain…
coats； and spent the time universally in those little economical
ingenuities and skilful adaptations which our people （the worse for
them） practise perhaps less than any other。 There was no
assembling at the sake shop。 Poor though the homes are； the men
enjoy them； the children are an attraction at any rate； and the
brawling and disobedience which often turn our working…class homes
into bear…gardens are unknown here； where docility and obedience
are inculcated from the cradle as a matter of course。 The signs of
religion become fewer as I travel north； and it appears that the
little faith which exists consists mainly in a belief in certain
charms and superstitions； which the priests industriously foster。
A low voice is not regarded as 〃a most excellent thing；〃 in man at
least； among the lower classes in Japan。 The people speak at the
top of their voices； and； though most words and syllables end in
vowels； the general effect of a conversation is like the discordant
gabble of a farm…yard。 The next room to mine is full of stormbound
travellers； and they and the house…master kept up what I thought
was a most important argument for four hours at the top of their
voices。 I supposed it must be on the new and important ordinance
granting local elective assemblies； of which I heard at Odate； but
on inquiry found that it was possible to spend four mortal hours in
discussing whether the day's journey from Odate to Noshiro could be
made best by road or river。
Japanese women have their own gatherings； where gossip and chit…
chat； marked by a truly Oriental indecorum of speech； are the
staple of talk。 I think that in many things； specially in some
which lie on the surface； the Japanese are greatly our superiors；
but that in many others they are immeasurably behind us。 In living
altogether among this courteous； industrious； and civilised people；
one comes to forget that one is doing them a gross injustice in
comparing their manners and ways with those of a people moulded by
many centuries of Christianity。 Would to God that we were so
Christianised that the comparison might always be favourable to us；
which it is not！
July 30。In the room on the other side of mine were two men with
severe eye…disease； with shaven heads and long and curious
rosaries； who beat small drums as they walked； and were on
pilgrimage to the shrine of Fudo at Megura； near Yedo； a seated；
flame…surrounded idol； with a naked sword in one hand and a coil of
rope in the other； who has the reputation of giving sight to the
blind。 At five this morning they began their devotions； which
consisted in repeating with great rapidity； and in a high
monotonous key for two hours； the invocation of the Nichiren sect
of Buddhists； Namu miyo ho ren ge Kiyo； which certainly no Japanese
understands； and on the meaning of which even the best scholars are
divided； one having given me； 〃Glory to the salvation…bringing
Scriptures；〃 another； 〃Hail； precious law and gospel of the lotus
flower；〃 and a third； 〃Heaven and earth！ The teachings of the
wonderful lotus flower sect。〃 Namu amidu Butsu occurred at
intervals； and two drums were beaten the whole time！
The rain； which began again at eleven last night； fell from five
till eight this morning； not in drops； but in streams； and in the
middle of it a heavy pall of blackness （said to be a total eclipse）
enfolded all things in a lurid gloom。 Any detention is
exasperating within one day of my journey's end； and I hear without
equanimity that there are great difficulties ahead； and that our
getting through in three or even four days is doubtful。 I hope you
will not be tired of the monotony of my letters。 Such as they are；
they represent the scenes which a traveller would see throughout
much of northern Japan； and whatever interest they have consists in
the fact that they are a faithful representation； made upon the
spot； of what a foreigner sees and hears in travelling through a
large but unfrequented region。 I。 L。 B。
LETTER XXVIII
Torrents of RainAn unpleasant DetentionDevastations produced by
FloodsThe Yadate PassThe Force of WaterDifficulties thicken
A Primitive YadoyaThe Water rises。
IKARIGASEKI； AOMORI KEN； August 2。
The prophecies concerning difficulties are fulfilled。 For six days
and five nights the rain has never ceased； except for a few hours
at a time； and for the last thirteen hours； as during the eclipse
at Shirasawa； it has been falling in such sheets as I have only
seen for a few minutes at a time on the equator。 I have been here
storm…staid for two days； with damp bed； damp clothes； damp
everything； and boots； bag； books； are all green with mildew。 And
still the rain falls； and roads； bridges； rice…fields； trees； and
hillsides are being swept in a common ruin towards the Tsugaru
Strait； so tantalisingly near； and the simple people are calling on
the forgotten gods of the rivers and the hills； on the sun and
moon； and all the host of heaven； to save them from this 〃plague of
immoderate rain and waters。〃 For myself； to be able to lie down
all day is something； and as 〃the mind； when in a healthy state；
reposes as quietly before an insurmountable difficulty as before an
ascertained truth；〃 so； as I cannot get on； I have ceased to chafe；
and am rather inclined to magnify the advantages of the detention；
a necessary process； as you would think if you saw my surroundings！
The day before yesterday； in spite of severe pain； was one of the
m