unbeaten tracks in japan- 第4部分

LETTER　IV



〃John　Chinaman〃Engaging　a　ServantFirst　Impressions　of　ItoA
Solemn　ContractThe　Food　Question。

H。B。M。's　LEGATION；　YEDO；
June　7。

I　went　to　Yokohama　for　a　week　to　visit　Dr。　and　Mrs。　Hepburn　on　the
Bluff。　　Bishop　and　Mrs。　Burdon　of　Hong　Kong　were　also　guests；　and
it　was　very　pleasant。

One　cannot　be　a　day　in　Yokohama　without　seeing　quite　a　different
class　of　orientals　from　the　small；　thinly…dressed；　and　usually
poor…looking　Japanese。　　Of　the　2500　Chinamen　who　reside　in　Japan；
over　1100　are　in　Yokohama；　and　if　they　were　suddenly　removed；
business　would　come　to　an　abrupt　halt。　　Here；　as　everywhere；　the
Chinese　immigrant　is　making　himself　indispensable。　　He　walks
through　the　streets　with　his　swinging　gait　and　air　of　complete
self…complacency；　as　though　he　belonged　to　the　ruling　race。　　He　is
tall　and　big；　and　his　many　garments；　with　a　handsome　brocaded　robe
over　all；　his　satin　pantaloons；　of　which　not　much　is　seen；　tight　at
the　ankles；　and　his　high　shoes；　whose　black　satin　tops　are　slightly
turned　up　at　the　toes；　make　him　look　even　taller　and　bigger　than　he
is。　　His　head　is　mostly　shaven；　but　the　hair　at　the　back　is　plaited
with　a　quantity　of　black　purse　twist　into　a　queue　which　reaches　to
his　knees；　above　which；　set　well　back；　he　wears　a　stiff；　black
satin　skull…cap；　without　which　he　is　never　seen。　　His　face　is　very
yellow；　his　long　dark　eyes　and　eyebrows　slope　upwards　towards　his
temples；　he　has　not　the　vestige　of　a　beard；　and　his　skin　is　shiny。
He　looks　thoroughly　〃well…to…do。〃　　He　is　not　unpleasing…looking；
but　you　feel　that　as　a　Celestial　he　looks　down　upon　you。　　If　you
ask　a　question　in　a　merchant's　office；　or　change　your　gold　into
satsu；　or　take　your　railroad　or　steamer　ticket；　or　get　change　in　a
shop；　the　inevitable　Chinaman　appears。　　In　the　street　he　swings
past　you　with　a　purpose　in　his　face；　as　he　flies　past　you　in　a
kuruma　he　is　bent　on　business；　he　is　sober　and　reliable；　and　is
content　to　〃squeeze〃　his　employer　rather　than　to　rob　himhis　one
aim　in　life　is　money。　　For　this　he　is　industrious；　faithful；　self…
denying；　and　he　has　his　reward。

Several　of　my　kind　new　acquaintances　interested　themselves　about
the　（to　me）　vital　matter　of　a　servant　interpreter；　and　many
Japanese　came　to　〃see　after　the　place。〃　　The　speaking　of
intelligible　English　is　a　sine　qua　non；　and　it　was　wonderful　to
find　the　few　words　badly　pronounced　and　worse　put　together；　which
were　regarded　by　the　candidates　as　a　sufficient　qualification。　　Can
you　speak　English？　　〃Yes。〃　　What　wages　do　you　ask？　　〃Twelve　dollars
a　month。〃　　This　was　always　said　glibly；　and　in　each　case　sounded
hopeful。　　Whom　have　you　lived　with？　　A　foreign　name　distorted　out
of　all　recognition；　as　was　natural；　was　then　given。　　Where　have　you
travelled？　　This　question　usually　had　to　be　translated　into
Japanese；　and　the　usual　answer　was；　〃The　Tokaido；　the　Nakasendo；　to
Kiyoto；　to　Nikko；〃　naming　the　beaten　tracks　of　countless　tourists。
Do　you　know　anything　of　Northern　Japan　and　the　Hokkaido？　　〃No；〃
with　a　blank　wondering　look。　　At　this　stage　in　every　case　Dr。
Hepburn　compassionately　stepped　in　as　interpreter；　for　their　stock
of　English　was　exhausted。　　Three　were　regarded　as　promising。　　One
was　a　sprightly　youth　who　came　in　a　well…made　European　suit　of
light…coloured　tweed；　a　laid…down　collar；　a　tie　with　a　diamond　（？）
pin；　and　a　white　shirt；　so　stiffly　starched；　that　he　could　hardly
bend　low　enough　for　a　bow　even　of　European　profundity。　　He　wore　a
gilt　watch…chain　with　a　locket；　the　corner　of　a　very　white　cambric
pocket…handkerchief　dangled　from　his　breast　pocket；　and　he　held　a
cane　and　a　felt　hat　in　his　hand。　　He　was　a　Japanese　dandy　of　the
first　water。　　I　looked　at　him　ruefully。　　To　me　starched　collars　are
to　be　an　unknown　luxury　for　the　next　three　months。　　His　fine
foreign　clothes　would　enhance　prices　everywhere　in　the　interior；
and　besides　that；　I　should　feel　a　perpetual　difficulty　in　asking
menial　services　from　an　exquisite。　　I　was　therefore　quite　relieved
when　his　English　broke　down　at　the　second　question。

The　second　was　a　most　respectable…looking　man　of　thirty…five　in　a
good　Japanese　dress。　　He　was　highly　recommended；　and　his　first
English　words　were　promising；　but　he　had　been　cook　in　the　service
of　a　wealthy　English　official　who　travelled　with　a　large　retinue；
and　sent　servants　on　ahead　to　prepare　the　way。　　He　knew　really　only
a　few　words　of　English；　and　his　horror　at　finding　that　there　was
〃no　master；〃　and　that　there　would　be　no　woman…servant；　was　so
great；　that　I　hardly　know　whether　he　rejected　me　or　I　him。

The　third；　sent　by　Mr。　Wilkinson；　wore　a　plain　Japanese　dress；　and
had　a　frank；　intelligent　face。　　Though　Dr。　Hepburn　spoke　with　him
in　Japanese；　he　thought　that　he　knew　more　English　than　the　others；
and　that　what　he　knew　would　come　out　when　he　was　less　agitated。　　He
evidently　understood　what　I　said；　and；　though　I　had　a　suspicion
that　he　would　turn　out　to　be　the　〃master；〃　I　thought　him　so
prepossessing　that　I　nearly　engaged　him　on　the　spot。　　None　of　the
others　merit　any　remark。

However；　when　I　had　nearly　made　up　my　mind　in　his　favour；　a
creature　appeared　without　any　recommendation　at　all；　except　that
one　of　Dr。　Hepburn's　servants　was　acquainted　with　him。　　He　is　only
eighteen；　but　this　is　equivalent　to　twenty…three　or　twenty…four
with　us；　and　only　4　feet　10　inches　in　height；　but；　though　bandy…
legged；　is　well　proportioned　and　strong…looking。　　He　has　a　round
and　singularly　plain　face；　good　teeth；　much　elongated　eyes；　and　the
heavy　droop　of　his　eyelids　almost　caricatures　the　usual　Japanese
peculiarity。　　He　is　the　most　stupid…looking　Japanese　that　I　have
seen；　but；　from　a　rapid；　furtive　glance　in　his　eyes　now　and　then；　I
think　that　the　stolidity　is　partly　assumed。　　He　said　that　he　had
lived　at　the　American　Legation；　that　he　had　been　a　clerk　on　the
Osaka　railroad；　that　he　had　travelled　through　northern　Japan　by　the
eastern　route；　and　in　Yezo　with　Mr。　Maries；　a　botanical　collector；
that　he　understood　drying　plants；　that　he　could　cook　a　little；　that
he　could　write　English；　that　he　could　walk　twenty…five　miles　a　day；
and　that　he　thoroughly　understood　getting　through　the　interior！
This　would…be　paragon　had　no　recommendations；　and　accounted　for
this　by　saying　that　they　had　been　burned　in　a　recent　fire　in　his
father's　house。　　Mr。　Maries　was　not　forthcoming；　and　more　than
this；　I　suspected　and　disliked　the　boy。　　However；　he　understood　my
English　and　I　his；　and；　being　very　anxious　to　begin　my　travels；　I
engaged　him　for　twelve　dollars　a　month；　and　soon　afterwards　he　came
back　with　a　contract；　in　which　he　declares　by　all　that　he　holds
most　sacred　that　he　will　serve　me　faithfully　for　the　wages　agreed
upon；　and　to　this　document　he　affixed　his　seal　and　I　my　name。　　The
next　day　he　asked　me　for　a　month's　wages　in　advance；　which　I　gave
him；　but　Dr。　H。　consolingly　suggested　that　I　should　never　see　him
again！

Ever　since　the　solemn　night　when　the　contract　was　signed　I　have
felt　under　an　incubus；　and　since　he　appeared　here　yesterday；
punctual　to　the　appointed　hour；　I　have　felt　as　if　I　had　a　veritable
〃old　man　of　the　sea〃　upon　my　shoulders。　　He　flies　up　stairs　and
along　the　corridors　as　noiselessly　as　a　cat；　and　already　knows
where　I　keep　all　my　things。　　Nothing　surprises　or　abashes　him；　he
bows　profoundly　to　Sir　Harry　and　Lady　Parkes　when　he　encounters
them；　but　is　obviously　〃quite　at　home〃　in　a　Legation；　and　only
allowed　one　of　the　orderlies　to　show　him　how　to　put　on　a　Mexican
saddle　and　English　bridle　out　of　condescension　to　my　wishes。　　He
seems　as　sharp　or　〃smart〃　as　can　be；　and　has　already　arranged　for
the　first　three　days　of　my　journey。　　His　name　is　Ito；　and　you　will
doubtless　hear　much　more　of　him；　as　he　will　be　my　good　or　evil
genius　for　the　next　three　months。

As　no　English　lady　has　yet　travelled　alone　through　the　interior；　my
project　excites　a　very　friendly　interest　among　my　friends；　and　I
receive　much　warning　and　dissuasion；　and　a　little　encouragement。
The　strongest；　because　the　most　intelligent；　dissuasion　comes　from
Dr。　Hepburn；　who　thinks　that　I　ought　not　to　undertake　the　journey；
and　that　I　shall　never　get　through　to　the　Tsugaru　Strait。　　If　I
accepted　much　of　the　advice　given　to　me；　as　to　taking　tinned　meats
and　soups；　claret；　and　a　Japanese　maid；　I　should　need　a　train　of　at
least　six　pack…horses！　　As　to　fleas；　there　is　a　lamentable
concensus　of　opinion　that　they　are　the　curse　of　Japanese　travelling
during　the　summer；　and　some　people　recommend　me　to　sleep　in　a　bag
drawn　tightly　round　the　throat；　others　to　sprinkle　my　bedding
freely　with　insect　powder；　others　to　smear　the　skin　all　over　with
carbolic　oil；　and　some　to　make　a　plentiful　use　of　dried　and
powdered　flea…bane。　　All　admit；　however；　that　these　are　but　feeble
palliatives。　　Hammocks　unfortunately　cannot　be　used　in　Japanese
houses。

The　〃Food　Question〃　is　said　to　be　the　most　important　one　for　all
travellers；　and　it　is　discussed　continually　with　startling
earnestness；　not　alone　as　regards　my　tour。　　However　apathetic
people　are　on　other　subjects；　the　mere　mention　of　this　one　rouses
them　into　interest。　　All　have　suffered　or　may　suffer；　and　every　one
wishes　to　impart　his　own　experience　or　to　learn　from　that　of
others。　　Foreign　ministers；　professors；　missionaries；　merchants
all　discuss　it　with　becoming　gravity　as　a　question　of　life　and
death；　which　by　many　it　is　supposed　to　be。　　The　fact　is　that；
except　at　a　few　hotels　in　popular　resorts　which　are　got　up　for
foreigners；　bread；　butter；　milk；　meat；　poultry；　coffee；　wine；　and
beer；　are　unattainable；　that　fresh　fish　is　rare；　and　that　unless
one　can　live　on　rice；　tea；　and　eggs；　with　the　addition　now　and　then
of　some　tasteless　fresh　vegetables；　food　must　be　taken；　as　the
fishy　and　vegetable　abominations　known　as　〃Japanese　food〃　can　only
be　swallowed　and　digested　by　a　few；　and　that　after　long　practice。
｛4｝

Another；　but　far　inferior；　difficulty　on　which　much　stress　is　laid
is　the　practice　common　among　native　servants　of　getting　a　〃squeeze〃
out　of　every　money　transaction　on　the　road；　so　that　the　cost　of
travelling　is　often　doubled；　and　sometimes　trebled；　according　to
the　skill　and　capacity　of　the　servant。　　Three　gentleme