and surrounded by hills； one low range forming a curtain across the
base of Iwakisan； a great snow…streaked dome； which rises to the
west of the plain to a supposed height of 5000 feet。 The water had
risen in most of the villages to a height of four feet； and had
washed the lower part of the mud walls away。 The people were busy
drying their tatami； futons； and clothing； reconstructing their
dykes and small bridges； and fishing for the logs which were still
coming down in large quantities。
In one town two very shabby policemen rushed upon us； seized the
bridle of my horse； and kept me waiting for a long time in the
middle of a crowd； while they toilsomely bored through the
passport； turning it up and down； and holding it up to the light；
as though there were some nefarious mystery about it。 My horse
stumbled so badly that I was obliged to walk to save myself from
another fall； and； just as my powers were failing； we met a kuruma；
which by good management； such as being carried occasionally；
brought me into Kuroishi； a neat town of 5500 people； famous for
the making of clogs and combs； where I have obtained a very neat；
airy； upstairs room； with a good view over the surrounding country
and of the doings of my neighbours in their back rooms and gardens。
Instead of getting on to Aomori I am spending three days and two
nights here； and； as the weather has improved and my room is
remarkably cheerful； the rest has been very pleasant。 As I have
said before； it is difficult to get any information about anything
even a few miles off； and even at the Post Office they cannot give
any intelligence as to the date of the sailings of the mail steamer
between Aomori； twenty miles off； and Hakodate。
The police were not satisfied with seeing my passport； but must
also see me； and four of them paid me a polite but domiciliary
visit the evening of my arrival。 That evening the sound of
drumming was ceaseless； and soon after I was in bed Ito announced
that there was something really worth seeing； so I went out in my
kimono and without my hat； and in this disguise altogether escaped
recognition as a foreigner。 Kuroishi is unlighted； and I was
tumbling and stumbling along in overhaste when a strong arm cleared
the way； and the house…master appeared with a very pretty lantern；
hanging close to the ground from a cane held in the hand。 Thus
came the phrase； 〃Thy word is a light unto my feet。〃
We soon reached a point for seeing the festival procession advance
towards us； and it was so beautiful and picturesque that it kept me
out for an hour。 It passes through all the streets between 7 and
10 p。m。 each night during the first week in August； with an ark； or
coffer； containing slips of paper； on which （as I understand）
wishes are written； and each morning at seven this is carried to
the river and the slips are cast upon the stream。 The procession
consisted of three monster drums nearly the height of a man's body；
covered with horsehide； and strapped to the drummers； end upwards；
and thirty small drums； all beaten rub…a…dub…dub without ceasing。
Each drum has the tomoye painted on its ends。 Then there were
hundreds of paper lanterns carried on long poles of various lengths
round a central lantern； 20 feet high； itself an oblong 6 feet
long； with a front and wings； and all kinds of mythical and
mystical creatures painted in bright colours upon ita
transparency rather than a lantern； in fact。 Surrounding it were
hundreds of beautiful lanterns and transparencies of all sorts of
fanciful shapesfans； fishes； birds； kites； drums； the hundreds of
people and children who followed all carried circular lanterns； and
rows of lanterns with the tomoye on one side and two Chinese
characters on the other hung from the eaves all along the line of
the procession。 I never saw anything more completely like a fairy
scene； the undulating waves of lanterns as they swayed along； the
soft lights and soft tints moving aloft in the darkness； the
lantern…bearers being in deep shadow。 This festival is called the
tanabata； or seiseki festival； but I am unable to get any
information about it。 Ito says that he knows what it means； but is
unable to explain； and adds the phrase he always uses when in
difficulties； 〃Mr。 Satow would be able to tell you all about it。〃
I。 L。 B。
LETTER XXX
A Lady's ToiletHair…dressingPaint and CosmeticsAfternoon
VisitorsChristian Converts。
KUROISHI； August 5。
This is a pleasant place； and my room has many advantages besides
light and cleanliness； as； for instance； that I overlook my
neighbours and that I have seen a lady at her toilet preparing for
a wedding！ A married girl knelt in front of a black lacquer
toilet…box with a spray of cherry blossoms in gold sprawling over
it； and lacquer uprights at the top； which supported a polished
metal mirror。 Several drawers in the toilet…box were open； and
toilet requisites in small lacquer boxes were lying on the floor。
A female barber stood behind the lady； combing； dividing； and tying
her hair； which； like that of all Japanese women； was glossy black；
but neither fine nor long。 The coiffure is an erection； a complete
work of art。 Two divisions； three inches apart； were made along
the top of the head； and the lock of hair between these was combed；
stiffened with a bandoline made from the Uvario Japonica； raised
two inches from the forehead； turned back； tied； and pinned to the
back hair。 The rest was combed from each side to the back； and
then tied loosely with twine made of paper。 Several switches of
false hair were then taken out of a long lacquer box； and； with the
aid of a quantity of bandoline and a solid pad； the ordinary smooth
chignon was produced； to which several loops and bows of hair were
added； interwoven with a little dark…blue crepe； spangled with
gold。 A single； thick； square…sided； tortoiseshell pin was stuck
through the whole as an ornament。
The fashions of dressing the hair are fixed。 They vary with the
ages of female children； and there is a slight difference between
the coiffure of the married and unmarried。 The two partings on the
top of the head and the chignon never vary。 The amount of
stiffening used is necessary； as the head is never covered out of
doors。 This arrangement will last in good order for a week or
morethanks to the wooden pillow。
The barber's work was only partially done when the hair was
dressed； for every vestige of recalcitrant eyebrow was removed； and
every downy hair which dared to display itself on the temples and
neck was pulled out with tweezers。 This removal of all short hair
has a tendency to make even the natural hair look like a wig。 Then
the lady herself took a box of white powder； and laid it on her
face； ears； and neck； till her skin looked like a mask。 With a
camel's…hair brush she then applied some mixture to her eyelids to
make the bright eyes look brighter； the teeth were blackened； or
rather reblackened； with a feather brush dipped in a solution of
gall…nuts and iron…filingsa tiresome and disgusting process；
several times repeated； and then a patch of red was placed upon the
lower lip。 I cannot say that the effect was pleasing； but the girl
thought so； for she turned her head so as to see the general effect
in the mirror； smiled； and was satisfied。 The remainder of her
toilet； which altogether took over three hours； was performed in
private； and when she reappeared she looked as if a very unmeaning…
looking wooden doll had been dressed up with the exquisite good
taste； harmony； and quietness which characterise the dress of
Japanese women。
A most rigid social etiquette draws an impassable line of
demarcation between the costume of the virtuous woman in every rank
and that of her frail sister。 The humiliating truth that many of
our female fashions are originated by those whose position we the
most regret； and are then carefully copied by all classes of women
in our country； does not obtain credence among Japanese women； to
whom even the slightest approximation in the style of hair…
dressing； ornament； or fashion of garments would be a shame。
I was surprised to hear that three 〃Christian students〃 from
Hirosaki wished to see methree remarkably intelligent…looking；
handsomely…dressed young men； who all spoke a little English。 One
of them had the brightest and most intellectual face which I have
seen in Japan。 They are of the samurai class； as I should have
known from the superior type of face and manner。 They said that
they heard that an English lady was in the house； and asked me if I
were a Christian； but apparently were not satisfied till； in answer
to the question if I had a Bible； I was able to produce one。
Hirosaki is a castle town of some importance； 3。5 ri from here； and
its ex…daimiyo supports a high…class school or college there； which
has had two Americans successively for its headmasters。 These
gentlemen must have been very consistent in Christian living as
well as energetic in Christian teaching； for under their auspices
thirty young men have embraced Christianity。 As all of these are
well educated； and several are nearly ready to pass as teachers
into Government employment； their acceptance of the 〃new way〃 may
have an important bearing on the future of this region。
I。 L。 B。
LETTER XXXI
A Travelling CuriosityRude DwellingsPrimitive SimplicityThe
Public Bath…house。
KUROISHI。
Yesterday was beautiful； and； dispensing for the first time with
Ito's attendance； I took a kuruma for the day； and had a very
pleasant excursion into a cul de sac in the mountains。 The one
drawback was the infamous road； which compelled me either to walk
or be mercilessly jolted。 The runner was a nice； kind； merry
creature； quite delighted； Ito said； to have a chance of carrying
so great a sight as a foreigner into a district in which no
foreigner has even been seen。 In the absolute security of Japanese
travelling； which I have fully realised for a long time； I look
back upon my fears at Kasukabe with a feeling of self…contempt。
The scenery； which was extremely pretty； gained everything from
sunlight and colourwonderful shades of cobalt and indigo；