nearly overpowering stench came across the level from the sheds and
apparatus used for extracting fish…oil。 I enjoyed the afternoon
thoroughly。 It is so good to have got beyond the confines of
stereotyped civilisation and the trammels of Japanese travelling to
the solitude of nature and an atmosphere of freedom。 It was grey；
with a hard； dark line of ocean horizon； and over the weedy level
the grey road； with grey telegraph…poles along it； stretched
wearisomely like a grey thread。 The breeze came up from the sea；
rustled the reeds； and waved the tall plumes of the Eulalia
japonica； and the thunder of the Pacific surges boomed through the
air with its grand； deep bass。 Poetry and music pervaded the
solitude； and my spirit was rested。
Going up and then down a steep； wooded hill； the road appeared to
return to its original state of brushwood； and the men stopped at
the broken edge of a declivity which led down to a shingle bank and
a foam…crested river of clear； blue…green water； strongly
impregnated with sulphur from some medicinal springs above； with a
steep bank of tangle on the opposite side。 This beautiful stream
was crossed by two round poles； a foot apart； on which I attempted
to walk with the help of an Aino hand； but the poles were very
unsteady； and I doubt whether any one； even with a strong head；
could walk on them in boots。 Then the beautiful Aino signed to me
to come back and mount on his shoulders； but when he had got a few
feet out the poles swayed and trembled so much that he was obliged
to retrace his way cautiously； during which process I endured
miseries from dizziness and fear； after which he carried me through
the rushing water； which was up to his shoulders； and through a bit
of swampy jungle； and up a steep bank； to the great fatigue both of
body and mind； hardly mitigated by the enjoyment of the ludicrous
in riding a savage through these Yezo waters。 They dexterously
carried the kuruma through； on the shoulders of four； and showed
extreme anxiety that neither it nor I should get wet。 After this
we crossed two deep； still rivers in scows； and far above the grey
level and the grey sea the sun was setting in gold and vermilion…
streaked green behind a glorified mountain of great height； at
whose feet the forest…covered hills lay in purple gloom。 At dark
we reached Shiraoi； a village of eleven Japanese houses； with a
village of fifty…one Aino houses； near the sea。 There is a large
yadoya of the old style there； but I found that Ito had chosen a
very pretty new one； with four stalls open to the road； in the
centre one of which I found him； with the welcome news that a steak
of fresh salmon was broiling on the coals； and； as the room was
clean and sweet and I was very hungry； I enjoyed my meal by the
light of a rush in a saucer of fish…oil as much as any part of the
day。
SARUFUTO。
The night was too cold for sleep； and at daybreak； hearing a great
din； I looked out； and saw a drove of fully a hundred horses all
galloping down the road； with two Ainos on horse…back； and a number
of big dogs after them。 Hundreds of horses run nearly wild on the
hills； and the Ainos； getting a large drove together； skilfully
head them for the entrance into the corral； in which a selection of
them is made for the day's needs； and the remainderthat is； those
with the deepest sores on their backsare turned loose。 This dull
rattle of shoeless feet is the first sound in the morning in these
Yezo villages。 I sent Ito on early； and followed at nine with
three Ainos。 The road is perfectly level for thirteen miles；
through gravel flats and swamps； very monotonous； but with a wild
charm of its own。 There were swampy lakes； with wild ducks and
small white water…lilies； and the surrounding levels were covered
with reedy grass； flowers； and weeds。 The early autumn has
withered a great many of the flowers； but enough remains to show
how beautiful the now russet plains must have been in the early
summer。 A dwarf rose； of a deep crimson colour； with orange；
medlar…shaped hips； as large as crabs； and corollas three inches
across； is one of the features of Yezo； and besides； there is a
large rose…red convolvulus； a blue campanula； with tiers of bells；
a blue monkshood； the Aconitum Japonicum； the flaunting Calystegia
soldanella； purple asters； grass of Parnassus； yellow lilies； and a
remarkable trailer； whose delicate leafage looked quite out of
place among its coarse surroundings； with a purplish…brown
campanulate blossom； only remarkable for a peculiar arrangement of
the pistil； green stamens； and a most offensive carrion…like odour；
which is probably to attract to it a very objectionable…looking
fly； for purposes of fertilisation。
We overtook four Aino women； young and comely； with bare feet；
striding firmly along； and after a good deal of laughing with the
men； they took hold of the kuruma； and the whole seven raced with
it at full speed for half a mile； shrieking with laughter。 Soon
after we came upon a little tea…house； and the Ainos showed me a
straw package； and pointed to their open mouths； by which I
understood that they wished to stop and eat。 Later we overtook
four Japanese on horseback； and the Ainos raced with them for a
considerable distance； the result of these spurts being that I
reached Tomakomai at noona wide； dreary place； with houses roofed
with sod； bearing luxuriant crops of weeds。 Near this place is the
volcano of Tarumai； a calm…looking； grey cone； whose skirts are
draped by tens of thousands of dead trees。 So calm and grey had it
looked for many a year that people supposed it had passed into
endless rest； when quite lately； on a sultry day； it blew off its
cap and covered the whole country for many a mile with cinders and
ashes； burning up the forest on its sides； adding a new covering to
the Tomakomai roofs； and depositing fine ash as far as Cape Erimo；
fifty miles off。
At this place the road and telegraph wires turn inland to
Satsuporo； and a track for horses only turns to the north…east； and
straggles round the island for about seven hundred miles。 From
Mororan to Sarufuto there are everywhere traces of new and old
volcanic actionpumice； tufas； conglomerates； and occasional beds
of hard basalt； all covered with recent pumice； which； from Shiraoi
eastwards； conceals everything。 At Tomakomai we took horses； and；
as I brought my own saddle； I have had the nearest approach to real
riding that I have enjoyed in Japan。 The wife of a Satsuporo
doctor was there； who was travelling for two hundred miles astride
on a pack…saddle； with rope…loops for stirrups。 She rode well； and
vaulted into my saddle with circus…like dexterity； and performed
many equestrian feats upon it； telling me that she should be quite
happy if she were possessed of it。
I was happy when I left the 〃beaten track〃 to Satsuporo； and saw
before me； stretching for I know not how far； rolling； sandy
machirs like those of the Outer Hebrides； desert…like and lonely；
covered almost altogether with dwarf roses and campanulas； a
prairie land on which you can make any tracks you please。 Sending
the others on； I followed them at the Yezo scramble； and soon
ventured on a long gallop； and revelled in the music of the thud of
shoeless feet over the elastic soil； but I had not realised the
peculiarities of Yezo steeds； and had forgotten to ask whether mine
was a 〃front horse；〃 and just as we were going at full speed we
came nearly up with the others； and my horse coming abruptly to a
full stop； I went six feet over his head among the rose…bushes。
Ito looking back saw me tightening the saddle…girths； and I never
divulged this escapade。
After riding eight miles along this breezy belt； with the sea on
one side and forests on the other； we came upon Yubets； a place
which has fascinated me so much that I intend to return to it； but
I must confess that its fascinations depend rather upon what it has
not than upon what it has； and Ito says that it would kill him to
spend even two days there。 It looks like the end of all things； as
if loneliness and desolation could go no farther。 A sandy stretch
on three sides； a river arrested in its progress to the sea； and
compelled to wander tediously in search of an outlet by the height
and mass of the beach thrown up by the Pacific； a distant forest…
belt rising into featureless； wooded ranges in shades of indigo and
grey； and a never…absent consciousness of a vast ocean just out of
sight； are the environments of two high look…outs； some sheds for
fish…oil purposes； four or five Japanese houses； four Aino huts on
the top of the beach across the river； and a grey barrack；
consisting of a polished passage eighty feet long； with small rooms
on either side； at one end a gravelled yard； with two quiet rooms
opening upon it； and at the other an immense daidokoro； with dark
recesses and blackened raftersa haunted…looking abode。 One would
suppose that there had been a special object in setting the houses
down at weary distances from each other。 Few as they are； they are
not all inhabited at this season； and all that can be seen is grey
sand； sparse grass； and a few savages creeping about。
Nothing that I have seen has made such an impression upon me as
that ghostly； ghastly fishing…station。 In the long grey wall of
the long grey barrack there were many dismal windows； and when we
hooted for admission a stupid face appeared at one of them and
disappeared。 Then a grey gateway opened； and we rode into a yard
of grey gravel； with some silent rooms opening upon it。 The
solitude of the thirty or forty rooms which lie between it and the
kitchen； and which are now filled with nets and fishing…tackle； was
something awful； and as the wind swept along the polished passage；
rattling the fusuma and lifting the shingles on the roof； and the
rats careered from end to end； I went to the great black daidokoro
in search of social life； and found a few embers and an andon； and
nothing else but the stupid…faced man deploring his fate； and two
orphan boys whose lot he makes more wretched than his own。 In the
fishing…season this barrack accommodates from 200 to 300 men。
I started