fishing…season this barrack accommodates from 200 to 300 men。
I started to the sea…shore； crossing the dreary river； and found
open sheds much blackened； deserted huts of reeds； long sheds with
a nearly insufferable odour from caldrons in which oil had been
extracted from last year's fish； two or three Aino huts； and two or
three grand…looking Ainos； clothed in skins； striding like ghosts
over the sandbanks； a number of wolfish dogs； some log canoes or
〃dug…outs；〃 the bones of a wrecked junk； a quantity of bleached
drift…wood； a beach of dark…grey sand； and a tossing expanse of
dark…grey ocean under a dull and windy sky。 On this part of the
coast the Pacific spends its fury； and has raised up at a short
distance above high…water mark a sandy sweep of such a height that
when you descend its seaward slope you see nothing but the sea and
the sky； and a grey； curving shore； covered thick for many a lonely
mile with fantastic forms of whitened drift…wood； the shattered
wrecks of forest…trees； which are carried down by the innumerable
rivers； till； after tossing for weeks and months along with
〃wrecks of ships； and drifting
spars uplifting
On the desolate； rainy seas：
Ever drifting； drifting； drifting；
On the shifting
Currents of the restless main；〃
the 〃toiling surges〃 cast them on Yubets beach； and
〃All have found repose again。〃
A grim repose！
The deep boom of the surf was music； and the strange cries of sea…
birds； and the hoarse notes of the audacious black crows； were all
harmonious； for nature； when left to herself； never produces
discords either in sound or colour。
LETTER XXXV（Continued）
The Harmonies of NatureA Good HorseA Single DiscordA Forest
Aino Ferrymen〃Les Puces！ Les Puces！〃Baffled ExplorersIto's
Contempt for AinosAn Aino Introduction。
SARUFUTO。
No！ Nature has no discords。 This morning； to the far horizon；
diamond…flashing blue water shimmered in perfect peace； outlined by
a line of surf which broke lazily on a beach scarcely less snowy
than itself。 The deep； perfect blue of the sky was only broken by
a few radiant white clouds； whose shadows trailed slowly over the
plain on whose broad bosom a thousand corollas； in the glory of
their brief but passionate life； were drinking in the sunshine；
wavy ranges slept in depths of indigo； and higher hills beyond were
painted in faint blue on the dreamy sky。 Even the few grey houses
of Yubets were spiritualised into harmony by a faint blue veil
which was not a mist； and the loud croak of the loquacious and
impertinent crows had a cheeriness about it； a hearty mockery；
which I liked。
Above all； I had a horse so good that he was always trying to run
away； and galloped so lightly over the flowery grass that I rode
the seventeen miles here with great enjoyment。 Truly a good horse；
good ground to gallop on； and sunshine； make up the sum of
enjoyable travelling。 The discord in the general harmony was
produced by the sight of the Ainos； a harmless people without the
instinct of progress； descending to that vast tomb of conquered and
unknown races which has opened to receive so many before them。 A
mounted policeman started with us from Yubets； and rode the whole
way here； keeping exactly to my pace； but never speaking a word。
We forded one broad； deep river； and crossed another； partly by
fording and partly in a scow； after which the track left the level；
and； after passing through reedy grass as high as the horse's ears；
went for some miles up and down hill； through woods composed
entirely of the Ailanthus glandulosus； with leaves much riddled by
the mountain silk…worm； and a ferny undergrowth of the familiar
Pteris aquilina。 The deep shade and glancing lights of this open
copsewood were very pleasant； and as the horse tripped gaily up and
down the little hills； and the sea murmur mingled with the rustle
of the breeze； and a glint of white surf sometimes flashed through
the greenery； and dragonflies and butterflies in suits of crimson
and black velvet crossed the path continually like 〃living flashes〃
of light； I was reminded somewhat； though faintly； of windward
Hawaii。 We emerged upon an Aino hut and a beautiful placid river；
and two Ainos ferried the four people and horses across in a scow；
the third wading to guide the boat。 They wore no clothing； but
only one was hairy。 They were superb…looking men； gentle； and
extremely courteous； handing me in and out of the boat； and holding
the stirrup while I mounted； with much natural grace。 On leaving
they extended their arms and waved their hands inwards twice；
stroking their grand beards afterwards； which is their usual
salutation。 A short distance over shingle brought us to this
Japanese village of sixty…three houses； a colonisation settlement；
mainly of samurai from the province of Sendai； who are raising very
fine crops on the sandy soil。 The mountains； twelve miles in the
interior； have a large Aino population； and a few Ainos live near
this village and are held in great contempt by its inhabitants。 My
room is on the village street； and； as it is too warm to close the
shoji； the aborigines stand looking in at the lattice hour after
hour。
A short time ago Mr。 Von Siebold and Count Diesbach galloped up on
their return from Biratori； the Aino village to which I am going；
and Count D。； throwing himself from his horse； rushed up to me with
the exclamation； Les puces！ les puces！ They have brought down with
them the chief； Benri； a superb but dissipated…looking savage。 Mr。
Von Siebold called on me this evening； and I envied him his fresh；
clean clothing as much as he envied me my stretcher and mosquito…
net。 They have suffered terribly from fleas； mosquitoes； and
general discomfort； and are much exhausted； but Mr。 Von S。 thinks
that； in spite of all； a visit to the mountain Ainos is worth a
long journey。 As I expected； they have completely failed in their
explorations； and have been deserted by Lieutenant Kreitner。 I
asked Mr。 Von S。 to speak to Ito in Japanese about the importance
of being kind and courteous to the Ainos whose hospitality I shall
receive； and Ito is very indignant at this。 〃Treat Ainos
politely！〃 he says； 〃they're just dogs； not men；〃 and since he has
regaled me with all the scandal concerning them which he has been
able to rake together in the village。
We have to take not only food for both Ito and myself； but cooking
utensils。 I have been introduced to Benri； the chief； and； though
he does not return for a day or two； he will send a message along
with us which will ensure me hospitality。
I。 L。 B。
LETTER XXXVI
Savage LifeA Forest TrackCleanly VillagesA Hospitable
ReceptionThe Chief's MotherThe Evening MealA Savage Seance
Libations to the GodsNocturnal SilenceAino CourtesyThe
Chief's Wife。
AINO HUT； BIRATORI； August 23。
I am in the lonely Aino land； and I think that the most interesting
of my travelling experiences has been the living for three days and
two nights in an Aino hut； and seeing and sharing the daily life of
complete savages； who go on with their ordinary occupations just as
if I were not among them。 I found yesterday a most fatiguing and
over…exciting day； as everything was new and interesting； even the
extracting from men who have few if any ideas in common with me all
I could extract concerning their religion and customs； and that
through an interpreter。 I got up at six this morning to write out
my notes； and have been writing for five hours； and there is
shortly the prospect of another savage seance。 The distractions；
as you can imagine； are many。 At this moment a savage is taking a
cup of sake by the fire in the centre of the floor。 He salutes me
by extending his hands and waving them towards his face； and then
dips a rod in the sake； and makes six libations to the godan
upright piece of wood with a fringe of shavings planted in the
floor of the room。 Then he waves the cup several times towards
himself； makes other libations to the fire； and drinks。 Ten other
men and women are sitting along each side of the fire…hole； the
chief's wife is cooking； the men are apathetically contemplating
the preparation of their food； and the other women； who are never
idle； are splitting the bark of which they make their clothes。 I
occupy the guest seata raised platform at one end of the fire；
with the skin of a black bear thrown over it。
I have reserved all I have to say about the Ainos till I had been
actually among them； and I hope you will have patience to read to
the end。 Ito is very greedy and self…indulgent； and whimpered very
much about coming to Biratori at all；one would have thought he
was going to the stake。 He actually borrowed for himself a
sleeping mat and futons； and has brought a chicken； onions；
potatoes； French beans； Japanese sauce； tea； rice； a kettle； a
stew…pan； and a rice…pan； while I contented myself with a cold fowl
and potatoes。
We took three horses and a mounted Aino guide； and found a beaten
track the whole way。 It turns into the forest at once on leaving
Sarufuto； and goes through forest the entire distance； with an
abundance of reedy grass higher than my hat on horseback along it；
and； as it is only twelve inches broad and much overgrown； the
horses were constantly pushing through leafage soaking from a
night's rain； and I was soon wet up to my shoulders。 The forest
trees are almost solely the Ailanthus glandulosus and the Zelkowa
keaki； often matted together with a white…flowered trailer of the
Hydrangea genus。 The undergrowth is simply hideous； consisting
mainly of coarse reedy grass； monstrous docks； the large…leaved
Polygonum cuspidatum； several umbelliferous plants； and a 〃ragweed〃
which； like most of its gawky fellows； grows from five to six feet
high。 The forest is dark and very silent； threaded by this narrow
path； and by others as narrow； made by the hunters in search of
game。 The 〃main road〃 sometimes plunges into deep bogs； at others
is roughly corduroyed by the roots of trees； and frequently hangs
over the edge of abrupt and much…worn declivities； in going up one
of which the baggage…horse rolled down a bank fully thirty feet
high；