dipping it into the sake； made six libations to the fire and
several to the 〃god〃a wooden post； with a quantity of spiral
white shavings falling from near the top。 The Ainos are not
affected by sake nearly so easily as the Japanese。 They took it
cold； it is true； but each drank about three times as much as would
have made a Japanese foolish； and it had no effect upon them。
After two hours more talk one after another got up and went out；
making profuse salutations to me and to the others。 My candles had
been forgotten； and our seance was held by the fitful light of the
big logs on the fire； aided by a succession of chips of birch bark；
with which a woman replenished a cleft stick that was stuck into
the fire…hole。 I never saw such a strangely picturesque sight as
that group of magnificent savages with the fitful firelight on
their faces； and for adjuncts the flare of the torch； the strong
lights； the blackness of the recesses of the room and of the roof；
at one end of which the stars looked in； and the row of savage
women in the backgroundeastern savagery and western civilisation
met in this hut； savagery giving and civilisation receiving； the
yellow…skinned Ito the connecting…link between the two； and the
representative of a civilisation to which our own is but an 〃infant
of days。〃
I found it very exciting； and when all had left crept out into the
starlight。 The lodges were all dark and silent； and the dogs； mild
like their masters； took no notice of me。 The only sound was the
rustle of a light breeze through the surrounding forest。 The verse
came into my mind； 〃It is not the will of your Father which is in
heaven that one of these little ones should perish。〃 Surely these
simple savages are children； as children to be judged； may we not
hope as children to be saved through Him who came 〃not to judge the
world； but to save the world〃？
I crept back again and into my mosquito net； and suffered not from
fleas or mosquitoes； but from severe cold。 Shinondi conversed with
Ito for some time in a low musical voice； having previously asked
if it would keep me from sleeping。 No Japanese ever intermitted
his ceaseless chatter at any hour of the night for a similar
reason。 Later； the chief's principal wife； Noma； stuck a triply…
cleft stick in the fire…hole； put a potsherd with a wick and some
fish…oil upon it； and by the dim light of this rude lamp sewed
until midnight at a garment of bark cloth which she was ornamenting
for her lord with strips of blue cloth； and when I opened my eyes
the next morning she was at the window sewing by the earliest
daylight。 She is the most intelligent…looking of all the women；
but looks sad and almost stern； and speaks seldom。 Although she is
the principal wife of the chief she is not happy； for she is
childless； and I thought that her sad look darkened into something
evil as the other wife caressed a fine baby boy。 Benri seems to me
something of a brute； and the mother…in…law obviously holds the
reins of government pretty tight。 After sewing till midnight she
swept the mats with a bunch of twigs； and then crept into her bed
behind a hanging mat。 For a moment in the stillness I felt a
feeling of panic； as if I were incurring a risk by being alone
among savages； but I conquered it； and； after watching the fire
till it went out； fell asleep till I was awoke by the severe cold
of the next day's dawn。
LETTER XXXVI（Continued）
A Supposed Act of WorshipParental TendernessMorning Visits
Wretched CultivationHonesty and GenerosityA 〃Dug…out〃Female
OccupationsThe Ancient FateA New ArrivalA Perilous
PrescriptionThe Shrine of YoshitsuneThe Chief's Return。
When I crept from under my net much benumbed with cold； there were
about eleven people in the room； who all made their graceful
salutation。 It did not seem as if they had ever heard of washing；
for； when water was asked for； Shinondi brought a little in a
lacquer bowl； and held it while I bathed my face and hands；
supposing the performance to be an act of worship！ I was about to
throw some cold tea out of the window by my bed when he arrested me
with an anxious face； and I saw； what I had not observed before；
that there was a god at that windowa stick with festoons of
shavings hanging from it； and beside it a dead bird。 The Ainos
have two meals a day； and their breakfast was a repetition of the
previous night's supper。 We all ate together； and I gave the
children the remains of my rice； and it was most amusing to see
little creatures of three； four； and five years old； with no other
clothing than a piece of pewter hanging round their necks； first
formally asking leave of the parents before taking the rice； and
then waving their hands。 The obedience of the children is
instantaneous。 Their parents are more demonstrative in their
affection than the Japanese are； caressing them a good deal； and
two of the men are devoted to children who are not their own。
These little ones are as grave and dignified as Japanese children；
and are very gentle。
I went out soon after five； when the dew was glittering in the
sunshine； and the mountain hollow in which Biratori stands was
looking its very best； and the silence of the place； even though
the people were all astir； was as impressive as that of the night
before。 What a strange life！ knowing nothing； hoping nothing；
fearing a little； the need for clothes and food the one motive
principle； sake in abundance the one good！ How very few points of
contact it is possible to have！ I was just thinking so when
Shinondi met me； and took me to his house to see if I could do
anything for a child sorely afflicted with skin disease； and his
extreme tenderness for this very loathsome object made me feel that
human affections were the same among them as with us。 He had
carried it on his back from a village； five miles distant； that
morning； in the hope that it might be cured。 As soon as I entered
he laid a fine mat on the floor； and covered the guest…seat with a
bearskin。 After breakfast he took me to the lodge of the sub…
chief； the largest in the village； 45 feet square； and into about
twenty others all constructed in the same way； but some of them
were not more than 20 feet square。 In all I was received with the
same courtesy； but a few of the people asked Shinondi not to take
me into their houses； as they did not want me to see how poor they
are。 In every house there was the low shelf with more or fewer
curios upon it； but； besides these； none but the barest necessaries
of life； though the skins which they sell or barter every year
would enable them to surround themselves with comforts； were it not
that their gains represent to them sake； and nothing else。 They
are not nomads。 On the contrary； they cling tenaciously to the
sites on which their fathers have lived and died。 But anything
more deplorable than the attempts at cultivation which surround
their lodges could not be seen。 The soil is little better than
white sand； on which without manure they attempt to grow millet；
which is to them in the place of rice； pumpkins； onions； and
tobacco； but the look of their plots is as if they had been
cultivated ten years ago； and some chance…sown grain and vegetables
had come up among the weeds。 When nothing more will grow； they
partially clear another bit of forest； and exhaust that in its
turn。
In every house the same honour was paid to a guest。 This seems a
savage virtue which is not strong enough to survive much contact
with civilisation。 Before I entered one lodge the woman brought
several of the finer mats； and arranged them as a pathway for me to
walk to the fire upon。 They will not accept anything for lodging；
or for anything that they give； so I was anxious to help them by
buying some of their handiwork； but found even this a difficult
matter。 They were very anxious to give； but when I desired to buy
they said they did not wish to part with their things。 I wanted
what they had in actual use； such as a tobacco…box and pipe…sheath；
and knives with carved handles and scabbards； and for three of
these I offered 2。5 dollars。 They said they did not care to sell
them； but in the evening they came saying they were not worth more
than 1 dollar 10 cents； and they would sell them for that； and I
could not get them to take more。 They said it was 〃not their
custom。〃 I bought a bow and three poisoned arrows； two reed…mats；
with a diamond pattern on them in reeds stained red； some knives
with sheaths； and a bark cloth dress。 I tried to buy the sake…
sticks with which they make libations to their gods； but they said
it was 〃not their custom〃 to part with the sake…stick of any living
man； however； this morning Shinondi has brought me； as a very
valuable present； the stick of a dead man！ This morning the man
who sold the arrows brought two new ones； to replace two which were
imperfect。 I found them； as Mr。 Von Siebold had done；
punctiliously honest in all their transactions。 They wear very
large earrings with hoops an inch and a half in diameter； a pair
constituting the dowry of an Aino bride； but they would not part
with these。
A house was burned down two nights ago； and 〃custom〃 in such a case
requires that all the men should work at rebuilding it； so in their
absence I got two boys to take me in a 〃dug…out〃 as far as we could
go up the Sarufutogawaa lovely river； which winds tortuously
through the forests and mountains in unspeakable loveliness。 I had
much of the feeling of the ancient mariner …
〃We were the first
Who ever burst
Into that silent sea。〃
For certainly no European had ever previously floated on the dark
and forest…shrouded waters。 I enjoyed those hours thoroughly； for
the silence was profound； and the faint blue of the autumn sky； and
the soft blue veil which 〃spiritualised〃 the distances； were so
exquisitely like the Indian summer。
The evening was spent like the previous one； but the hearts of the
savages were sad； for there was no more sake in Biratori； so they
could not 〃drink to the god；〃 and the fire and the post with the
shavings had to go without libations。 There was no more oil； so
after the strangers retired th