shavings had to go without libations。 There was no more oil； so
after the strangers retired the hut was in complete darkness。
Yesterday morning we all breakfasted soon after daylight； and the
able…bodied men went away to hunt。 Hunting and fishing are their
occupations； and for 〃indoor recreation〃 they carve tobacco…boxes；
knife…sheaths； sake…sticks； and shuttles。 It is quite unnecessary
for them to do anything； they are quite contented to sit by the
fire； and smoke occasionally； and eat and sleep； this apathy being
varied by spasms of activity when there is no more dried flesh in
the kuras； and when skins must be taken to Sarufuto to pay for
sake。 The women seem never to have an idle moment。 They rise
early to sew； weave； and split bark； for they not only clothe
themselves and their husbands in this nearly indestructible cloth；
but weave it for barter； and the lower class of Japanese are
constantly to be seen wearing the product of Aino industry。 They
do all the hard work； such as drawing water； chopping wood；
grinding millet； and cultivating the soil； after their fashion；
but； to do the men justice； I often see them trudging along
carrying one and even two children。 The women take the exclusive
charge of the kuras； which are never entered by men。
I was left for some hours alone with the women； of whom there were
seven in the hut； with a few children。 On the one side of the fire
the chief's mother sat like a Fate； for ever splitting and knotting
bark； and petrifying me by her cold； fateful eyes。 Her thick； grey
hair hangs in shocks； the tattooing round her mouth has nearly
faded； and no longer disguises her really handsome features。 She
is dressed in a much ornamented bark…cloth dress； and wears two
silver beads tied round her neck by a piece of blue cotton； in
addition to very large earrings。 She has much sway in the house；
sitting on the men's side of the fire； drinking plenty of sake； and
occasionally chiding her grandson Shinondi for telling me too much；
saying that it will bring harm to her people。 Though her
expression is so severe and forbidding； she is certainly very
handsome； and it is a European； not an Asiatic； beauty。
The younger women were all at work； two were seated on the floor
weaving without a loom； and the others were making and mending the
bark coats which are worn by both sexes。 Noma； the chief's
principal wife； sat apart； seldom speaking。 Two of the youngest
women are very prettyas fair as ourselves； and their comeliness
is of the rosy； peasant kind。 It turns out that two of them；
though they would not divulge it before men； speak Japanese； and
they prattled to Ito with great vivacity and merriment； the ancient
Fate scowling at them the while from under her shaggy eyebrows。 I
got a number of words from them； and they laughed heartily at my
erroneous pronunciation。 They even asked me a number of questions
regarding their own sex among ourselves； but few of these would
bear repetition； and they answered a number of mine。 As the
merriment increased the old woman looked increasingly angry and
restless； and at last rated them sharply； as I have heard since；
telling them that if they spoke another word she should tell their
husbands that they had been talking to strangers。 After this not
another word was spoken； and Noma； who is an industrious housewife；
boiled some millet into a mash for a mid…day lunch。 During the
afternoon a very handsome young Aino； with a washed； richly…
coloured skin and fine clear eyes； came up from the coast； where he
had been working at the fishing。 He saluted the old woman and
Benri's wife on entering； and presented the former with a gourd of
sake； bringing a greedy light into her eyes as she took a long
draught； after which； saluting me； he threw himself down in the
place of honour by the fire； with the easy grace of a staghound； a
savage all over。 His name is Pipichari； and he is the chief's
adopted son。 He had cut his foot badly with a root； and asked me
to cure it； and I stipulated that it should be bathed for some time
in warm water before anything more was done； after which I bandaged
it with lint。 He said 〃he did not like me to touch his foot； it
was not clean enough； my hands were too white；〃 etc。； but when I
had dressed it； and the pain was much relieved； he bowed very low
and then kissed my hand！ He was the only one among them all who
showed the slightest curiosity regarding my things。 He looked at
my scissors； touched my boots； and watched me； as I wrote； with the
simple curiosity of a child。 He could speak a little Japanese； but
he said he was 〃too young to tell me anything； the older men would
know。〃 He is a 〃total abstainer〃 from sake； and he says that there
are four such besides himself among the large number of Ainos who
are just now at the fishing at Mombets； and that the others keep
separate from them； because they think that the gods will be angry
with them for not drinking。
Several 〃patients；〃 mostly children； were brought in during the
afternoon。 Ito was much disgusted by my interest in these people；
who； he repeated； 〃are just dogs；〃 referring to their legendary
origin； of which they are not ashamed。 His assertion that they
have learned politeness from the Japanese is simply baseless。
Their politeness； though of quite another and more manly stamp； is
savage； not civilised。 The men came back at dark； the meal was
prepared； and we sat round the fire as before； but there was no
sake； except in the possession of the old woman； and again the
hearts of the savages were sad。 I could multiply instances of
their politeness。 As we were talking； Pipichari； who is a very
〃untutored〃 savage； dropped his coat from one shoulder； and at once
Shinondi signed to him to put it on again。 Again； a woman was sent
to a distant village for some oil as soon as they heard that I
usually burned a light all night。 Little acts of courtesy were
constantly being performed； but I really appreciated nothing more
than the quiet way in which they went on with the routine of their
ordinary lives。
During the evening a man came to ask if I would go and see a woman
who could hardly breathe； and I found her very ill of bronchitis；
accompanied with much fever。 She was lying in a coat of skins；
tossing on the hard boards of her bed； with a matting…covered roll
under her head； and her husband was trying to make her swallow some
salt…fish。 I took her dry； hot handsuch a small hand； tattooed
all over the backand it gave me a strange thrill。 The room was
full of people； and they all seemed very sorry。 A medical
missionary would be of little use here； but a medically…trained
nurse； who would give medicines and proper food； with proper
nursing； would save many lives and much suffering。 It is of no use
to tell these people to do anything which requires to be done more
than once： they are just like children。 I gave her some
chlorodyne； which she swallowed with difficulty； and left another
dose ready mixed； to give her in a few hours； but about midnight
they came to tell me that she was worse； and on going I found her
very cold and weak； and breathing very hard； moving her head
wearily from side to side。 I thought she could not live for many
hours； and was much afraid that they would think that I had killed
her。 I told them that I thought she would die； but they urged me
to do something more for her； and as a last hope I gave her some
brandy； with twenty…five drops of chlorodyne； and a few spoonfuls
of very strong beef…tea。 She was unable； or more probably
unwilling； to make the effort to swallow it； and I poured it down
her throat by the wild glare of strips of birch bark。 An hour
later they came back to tell me that she felt as if she were very
drunk； but； going back to her house； I found that she was sleeping
quietly； and breathing more easily； and； creeping back just at
dawn； I found her still sleeping； and with her pulse stronger and
calmer。 She is now decidedly better and quite sensible； and her
husband； the sub…chief； is much delighted。 It seems so sad that
they have nothing fit for a sick person's food； and though I have
made a bowl of beef…tea with the remains of my stock； it can only
last one day。
I was so tired with these nocturnal expeditions and anxieties that
on lying down I fell asleep； and on waking found more than the
usual assemblage in the room； and the men were obviously agog about
something。 They have a singular； and I hope an unreasonable； fear
of the Japanese Government。 Mr。 Von Siebold thinks that the
officials threaten and knock them about； and this is possible； but
I really think that the Kaitaikushi Department means well by them；
and； besides removing the oppressive restrictions by which； as a
conquered race； they were fettered； treats them far more humanely
and equitably than the U。S。 Government； for instance； treats the
North American Indians。 However； they are ignorant； and one of the
men； who had been most grateful because I said I would get Dr。
Hepburn to send some medicine for his child； came this morning and
begged me not to do so； as； he said； 〃the Japanese Government would
be angry。〃 After this they again prayed me not to tell the
Japanese Government that they had told me their customs and then
they began to talk earnestly together。
The sub…chief then spoke； and said that I had been kind to their
sick people； and they would like to show me their temple； which had
never been seen by any foreigner； but they were very much afraid of
doing so； and they asked me many times 〃not to tell the Japanese
Government that they showed it to me； lest some great harm should
happen to them。〃 The sub…chief put on a sleeveless Japanese war…
cloak to go up； and he； Shinondi； Pipichari； and two others
accompanied me。 It was a beautiful but very steep walk； or rather
climb； to the top of an abrupt acclivity beyond the village； on
which the temple or shrine stands。 It would be impossible to get
up were it not for the remains of a wooden staircase； not of Aino
construction。 Forest and mountain surround Biratori； and the only
breaks in the dense greenery are glints of the shining waters of
the