course of less than fifteen miles。
Looking inland； the volcano of Tarumai； with a bare grey top and a
blasted forest on its sides； occupies the right of the picture。 To
the left and inland are mountains within mountains； tumbled
together in most picturesque confusion； densely covered with forest
and cleft by magnificent ravines； here and there opening out into
narrow valleys。 The whole of the interior is jungle penetrable for
a few miles by shallow and rapid rivers； and by nearly smothered
trails made by the Ainos in search of game。 The general lie of the
country made me very anxious to find out whether a much…broken
ridge lying among the mountains is or is not a series of tufa cones
of ancient date； and； applying for a good horse and Aino guide on
horseback； I left Ito to amuse himself； and spent much of a most
splendid day in investigations and in attempting to get round the
back of the volcano and up its inland side。 There is a great deal
to see and learn there。 Oh that I had strength！ After hours of
most tedious and exhausting work I reached a point where there were
several great fissures emitting smoke and steam； with occasional
subterranean detonations。 These were on the side of a small； flank
crack which was smoking heavily。 There was light pumice
everywhere； but nothing like recent lava or scoriae。 One fissure
was completely lined with exquisite； acicular crystals of sulphur；
which perished with a touch。 Lower down there were two hot springs
with a deposit of sulphur round their margins； and bubbles of gas；
which； from its strong； garlicky smell； I suppose to be
sulphuretted hydrogen。 Farther progress in that direction was
impossible without a force of pioneers。 I put my arm down several
deep crevices which were at an altitude of only about 500 feet； and
had to withdraw it at once； owing to the great heat； in which some
beautiful specimens of tropical ferns were growing。 At the same
height I came to a hot springhot enough to burst one of my
thermometers； which was graduated above the boiling point of
Fahrenheit； and tying up an egg in a pocket…handkerchief and
holding it by a stick in the water； it was hard boiled in 8。5
minutes。 The water evaporated without leaving a trace of deposit
on the handkerchief； and there was no crust round its margin。 It
boiled and bubbled with great force。
Three hours more of exhausting toil； which almost knocked up the
horses； brought us to the apparent ridge； and I was delighted to
find that it consisted of a lateral range of tufa cones； which I
estimate as being from 200 to 350； or even 400 feet high。 They are
densely covered with trees of considerable age； and a rich deposit
of mould； but their conical form is still admirably defined。 An
hour of very severe work； and energetic use of the knife on the
part of the Aino； took me to the top of one of these through a mass
of entangled and gigantic vegetation； and I was amply repaid by
finding a deep； well…defined crateriform cavity of great depth；
with its sides richly clothed with vegetation； closely resembling
some of the old cones in the island of Kauai。 This cone is
partially girdled by a stream； which in one place has cut through a
bank of both red and black volcanic ash。 All the usual phenomena
of volcanic regions are probably to be met with north of Shiraoi；
and I hope they will at some future time be made the object of
careful investigation。
In spite of the desperate and almost overwhelming fatigue； I have
enjoyed few things more than that 〃exploring expedition。〃 If the
Japanese have no one to talk to they croon hideous discords to
themselves； and it was a relief to leave Ito behind and get away
with an Aino； who was at once silent； trustworthy； and faithful。
Two bright rivers bubbling over beds of red pebbles run down to
Shiraoi out of the back country； and my directions； which were
translated to the Aino； were to follow up one of these and go into
the mountains in the direction of one I pointed out till I said
〃Shiraoi。〃 It was one of those exquisite mornings which are seen
sometimes in the Scotch Highlands before rain； with intense
clearness and visibility； a blue atmosphere； a cloudless sky； blue
summits； heavy dew； and glorious sunshine； and under these
circumstances scenery beautiful in itself became entrancing。
The trailers are so formidable that we had to stoop over our
horses' necks at all times； and with pushing back branches and
guarding my face from slaps and scratches； my thick dogskin gloves
were literally frayed off； and some of the skin of my hands and
face in addition； so that I returned with both bleeding and
swelled。 It was on the return ride； fortunately； that in stooping
to escape one great liana the loop of another grazed my nose； and；
being unable to check my unbroken horse instantaneously； the loop
caught me by the throat； nearly strangled me； and in less time than
it takes to tell it I was drawn over the back of the saddle； and
found myself lying on the ground； jammed between a tree and the
hind leg of the horse； which was quietly feeding。 The Aino； whose
face was very badly scratched； missing me； came back； said never a
word； helped me up； brought me some water in a leaf； brought my
hat； and we rode on again。 I was little the worse for the fall；
but on borrowing a looking…glass I see not only scratches and
abrasions all over my face； but a livid mark round my throat as if
I had been hung！ The Aino left portions of his bushy locks on many
of the branches。 You would have been amused to see me in this
forest； preceded by this hairy and formidable…looking savage； who
was dressed in a coat of skins with the fur outside； seated on the
top of a pack…saddle covered with a deer hide； and with his hairy
legs crossed over the horse's necka fashion in which the Ainos
ride any horses over any ground with the utmost serenity。
It was a wonderful region for beauty。 I have not seen so beautiful
a view in Japan as from the river…bed from which I had the first
near view of the grand assemblage of tufa cones； covered with an
ancient vegetation； backed by high mountains of volcanic origin； on
whose ragged crests the red ash was blazing vermilion against the
blue sky； with a foreground of bright waters flashing through a
primeval forest。 The banks of these streams were deeply excavated
by the heavy rains； and sometimes we had to jump three and even
four feet out of the forest into the river； and as much up again；
fording the Shiraoi river only more than twenty times； and often
making a pathway of its treacherous bed and rushing waters； because
the forest was impassable from the great size of the prostrate
trees。 The horses look at these jumps； hold back； try to turn； and
then； making up their minds； suddenly plunge down or up。 When the
last vestige of a trail disappeared； I signed to the Aino to go on；
and our subsequent 〃exploration〃 was all done at the rate of about
a mile an hour。 On the openings the grass grows stiff and strong
to the height of eight feet； with its soft reddish plumes waving in
the breeze。 The Aino first forced his horse through it； but of
course it closed again； so that constantly when he was close in
front I was only aware of his proximity by the tinkling of his
horse's bells； for I saw nothing of him or of my own horse except
the horn of my saddle。 We tumbled into holes often； and as easily
tumbled out of them； but once we both went down in the most
unexpected manner into what must have been an old bear…trap； both
going over our horses' heads； the horses and ourselves struggling
together in a narrow space in a mist of grassy plumes； and； being
unable to communicate with my guide； the sense of the ridiculous
situation was so overpowering that； even in the midst of the
mishap； I was exhausted with laughter； though not a little bruised。
It was very hard to get out of that pitfall； and I hope I shall
never get into one again。 It is not the first occasion on which I
have been glad that the Yezo horses are shoeless。 It was through
this long grass that we fought our way to the tufa cones； with the
red ragged crests against the blue sky。
The scenery was magnificent； and after getting so far I longed to
explore the sources of the rivers； but besides the many
difficulties the day was far spent。 I was also too weak for any
energetic undertaking； yet I felt an intuitive perception of the
passion and fascination of exploring； and understood how people
could give up their lives to it。 I turned away from the tufa cones
and the glory of the ragged crests very sadly； to ride a tired
horse through great difficulties； and the animal was so thoroughly
done up that I had to walk； or rather wade； for the last hour； and
it was nightfall when I returned； to find that Ito had packed up
all my things； had been waiting ever since noon to start for
Horobets； was very grumpy at having to unpack； and thoroughly
disgusted when I told him that I was so tired and bruised that I
should have to remain the next day to rest。 He said indignantly；
〃I never thought that when you'd got the Kaitakushi kuruma you'd go
off the road into those woods！〃 We had seen some deer and many
pheasants； and a successful hunter brought in a fine stag； so that
I had venison steak for supper； and was much comforted； though Ito
seasoned the meal with well…got…up stories of the impracticability
of the Volcano Bay route。
Shiraoi consists of a large old Honjin； or yadoya； where the
daimiyo and his train used to lodge in the old days； and about
eleven Japanese houses； most of which are sake shopsa fact which
supplies an explanation of the squalor of the Aino village of
fifty…two houses； which is on the shore at a respectful distance。
There is no cultivation； in which it is like all the fishing
villages on this part of the coast； but fish…oil and fish…manure
are made in immense quantities； and； though it is not the season
here； the place is pervaded by 〃an ancient and fish…like smell。〃
The Aino houses are much smaller； poorer； and dirtier than those of
Biratori。 I went into a number of them； and conversed with the
people； many of whom understand Japanese。 Some of the houses