abruptly to a height of nearly 3000 feet； I should think。
In Yezo； as on the main island； one can learn very little about any
prospective route。 Usually when one makes an inquiry a Japanese
puts on a stupid look； giggles； tucks his thumbs into his girdle；
hitches up his garments； and either professes perfect ignorance or
gives one some vague second…hand information； though it is quite
possible that he may have been over every foot of the ground
himself more than once。 Whether suspicion of your motives in
asking； or a fear of compromising himself by answering； is at the
bottom of this I don't know； but it is most exasperating to a
traveller。 In Hakodate I failed to see Captain Blakiston； who has
walked round the whole Yezo sea…board； and all I was able to learn
regarding this route was that the coast was thinly peopled by
Ainos； that there were Government horses which could be got； and
that one could sleep where one got them； that rice and salt fish
were the only food； that there were many 〃bad rivers；〃 and that the
road went over 〃bad mountains；〃 that the only people who went that
way were Government officials twice a year； that one could not get
on more than four miles a day； that the roads over the passes were
〃all big stones；〃 etc。 etc。 So this Usu…taki took me altogether by
surprise； and for a time confounded all my carefully…constructed
notions of locality。 I had been told that the one volcano in the
bay was Komono…taki； near Mori； and this I believed to be eighty
miles off； and there； confronting me； within a distance of two
miles； was this grand； splintered； vermilion…crested thing； with a
far nobler aspect than that of 〃THE〃 volcano； with a curtain range
in front； deeply scored； and slashed with ravines and abysses whose
purple gloom was unlighted even by the noon…day sun。 One of the
peaks was emitting black smoke from a deep crater； another steam
and white smoke from various rents and fissures in its side
vermilion peaks； smoke； and steam all rising into a sky of
brilliant blue； and the atmosphere was so clear that I saw
everything that was going on there quite distinctly； especially
when I attained an altitude exceeding that of the curtain range。
It was not for two days that I got a correct idea of its
geographical situation； but I was not long in finding out that it
was not Komono…taki！ There is much volcanic activity about it。 I
saw a glare from it last night thirty miles away。 The Ainos said
that it was 〃a god；〃 but did not know its name； nor did the
Japanese who were living under its shadow。 At some distance from
it in the interior rises a great dome…like mountain； Shiribetsan；
and the whole view is grand。
A little beyond Mombets flows the river Osharu； one of the largest
of the Yezo streams。 It was much swollen by the previous day's
rain； and as the ferry…boat was carried away we had to swim it； and
the swim seemed very long。 Of course； we and the baggage got very
wet。 The coolness with which the Aino guide took to the water
without giving us any notice that its broad； eddying flood was a
swim； and not a ford； was very amusing。
From the top of a steepish ascent beyond the Osharugawa there is a
view into what looks like a very lovely lake； with wooded
promontories； and little bays； and rocky capes in miniature； and
little heights； on which Aino houses； with tawny roofs； are
clustered； and then the track dips suddenly； and deposits one； not
by a lake at all； but on Usu Bay； an inlet of the Pacific； much
broken up into coves； and with a very narrow entrance； only obvious
from a few points。 Just as the track touches the bay there is a
road…post； with a prayer…wheel in it； and by the shore an upright
stone of very large size； inscribed with Sanskrit characters； near
to a stone staircase and a gateway in a massive stone…faced
embankment； which looked much out of keeping with the general
wildness of the place。 On a rocky promontory in a wooded cove
there is a large； rambling house； greatly out of repair； inhabited
by a Japanese man and his son； who are placed there to look after
Government interests； exiles among 500 Ainos。 From among the
number of rat…haunted； rambling rooms which had once been handsome；
I chose one opening on a yard or garden with some distorted yews in
it； but found that the great gateway and the amado had no bolts；
and that anything might be appropriated by any one with dishonest
intentions； but the house…master and his son； who have lived for
ten years among the Ainos； and speak their language； say that
nothing is ever taken； and that the Ainos are thoroughly honest and
harmless。 Without this assurance I should have been distrustful of
the number of wide…mouthed youths who hung about； in the
listlessness and vacuity of savagery； if not of the bearded men who
sat or stood about the gateway with children in their arms。
Usu is a dream of beauty and peace。 There is not much difference
between the height of high and low water on this coast； and the
lake…like illusion would have been perfect had it not been that the
rocks were tinged with gold for a foot or so above the sea by a
delicate species of fucus。 In the exquisite inlet where I spent
the night； trees and trailers drooped into the water and were
mirrored in it； their green； heavy shadows lying sharp against the
sunset gold and pink of the rest of the bay； log canoes； with
planks laced upon their gunwales to heighten them； were drawn upon
a tiny beach of golden sand； and in the shadiest cove； moored to a
tree； an antique and much…carved junk was 〃floating double。〃
Wooded； rocky knolls； with Aino huts； the vermilion peaks of the
volcano of Usu…taki redder than ever in the sinking sun； a few
Ainos mending their nets； a few more spreading edible seaweed out
to dry； a single canoe breaking the golden mirror of the cove by
its noiseless motion； a few Aino loungers； with their 〃mild…eyed；
melancholy〃 faces and quiet ways suiting the quiet evening scene；
the unearthly sweetness of a temple bellthis was all； and yet it
was the loveliest picture I have seen in Japan。
In spite of Ito's remonstrances and his protestations that an
exceptionally good supper would be spoiled； I left my rat…haunted
room； with its tarnished gilding and precarious fusuma； to get the
last of the pink and lemon…coloured glory； going up the staircase
in the stone…faced embankment； and up a broad； well…paved avenue；
to a large temple； within whose open door I sat for some time
absolutely alone； and in a wonderful stillness； for the sweet…toned
bell which vainly chimes for vespers amidst this bear…worshipping
population had ceased。 This temple was the first symptom of
Japanese religion that I remember to have seen since leaving
Hakodate； and worshippers have long since ebbed away from its shady
and moss…grown courts。 Yet it stands there to protest for the
teaching of the great Hindu； and generations of Aino heathen pass
away one after another； and still its bronze bell tolls； and its
altar lamps are lit； and incense burns for ever before Buddha。 The
characters on the great bell of this temple are said to be the same
lines which are often graven on temple bells； and to possess the
dignity of twenty…four centuries：
〃All things are transient；
They being born must die；
And being born are dead；
And being dead are glad
To be at rest。〃
The temple is very handsome； the baldachino is superb； and the
bronzes and brasses on the altar are specially fine。 A broad ray
of sunlight streamed in； crossed the matted floor； and fell full
upon the figure of Sakya…muni in his golden shrine； and just at
that moment a shaven priest； in silk…brocaded vestments of faded
green； silently passed down the stream of light； and lit the
candles on the altar； and fresh incense filled the temple with a
drowsy fragrance。 It was a most impressive picture。 His curiosity
evidently shortened his devotions； and he came and asked me where I
had been and where I was going； to which； of course； I replied in
excellent Japanese； and then stuck fast。
Along the paved avenue； besides the usual stone trough for holy
water； there are on one side the thousand…armed Kwan…non； a very
fine relief； and on the other a Buddha； throned on the eternal
lotus blossom； with an iron staff； much resembling a crozier； in
his hand； and that eternal apathy on his face which is the highest
hope of those who hope at all。 I went through a wood； where there
are some mournful groups of graves on the hillside； and from the
temple came the sweet sound of the great bronze bell and the beat
of the big drum； and then； more faintly； the sound of the little
bell and drum； with which the priest accompanies his ceaseless
repetition of a phrase in the dead tongue of a distant land。 There
is an infinite pathos about the lonely temple in its splendour； the
absence of even possible worshippers； and the large population of
Ainos； sunk in yet deeper superstitions than those which go to make
up popular Buddhism。 I sat on a rock by the bay till the last pink
glow faded from Usu…taki and the last lemon stain from the still
water； and a beautiful crescent； which hung over the wooded hill；
had set； and the heavens blazed with stars：
〃Ten thousand stars were in the sky；
Ten thousand in the sea；
And every wave with dimpled face；
That leapt upon the air；
Had caught a star in its embrace；
And held it trembling there。〃
The loneliness of Usu Bay is something wonderfula house full of
empty rooms falling to decay； with only two men in itone Japanese
house among 500 savages； yet it was the only one in which I have
slept in which they bolted neither the amado nor the gate。 During
the night the amado fell out of the worn…out grooves with a crash；
knocking down the shoji； which fell on me； and rousing Ito； who
rushed into my room half…asleep； with a vague vision of blood…
thirsty Ainos in his mind。 I then learned what I have been very
stupid not to have learned before； that in these sliding wooden
shutters there is a small door through which one person can creep
at a time called the jishindo； or 〃earthquake door；〃 because it
provides an exit during the alarm of an earthquake； in case of