at a time called the jishindo； or 〃earthquake door；〃 because it
provides an exit during the alarm of an earthquake； in case of the
amado sticking in their grooves； or their bolts going wrong。 I
believe that such a door exists in all Japanese houses。
The next morning was as beautiful as the previous evening； rose and
gold instead of gold and pink。 Before the sun was well up I
visited a number of the Aino lodges； saw the bear； and the chief；
who； like all the rest； is a monogamist； and； after breakfast； at
my request； some of the old men came to give me such information as
they had。 These venerable elders sat cross…legged in the verandah；
the house…master's son； who kindly acted as interpreter； squatting；
Japanese fashion； at the side； and about thirty Ainos； mostly
women； with infants； sitting behind。 I spent about two hours in
going over the same ground as at Biratori； and also went over the
words； and got some more； including some synonyms。 The click of
the ts before the ch at the beginning of a word is strongly marked
among these Ainos。 Some of their customs differ slightly from
those of their brethren of the interior； specially as to the period
of seclusion after a death； the non…allowance of polygamy to the
chief； and the manner of killing the bear at the annual festival。
Their ideas of metempsychosis are more definite； but this； I think；
is to be accounted for by the influence and proximity of Buddhism。
They spoke of the bear as their chief god； and next the sun and
fire。 They said that they no longer worship the wolf； and that
though they call the volcano and many other things kamoi； or god；
they do not worship them。 I ascertained beyond doubt that worship
with them means simply making libations of sake and 〃drinking to
the god；〃 and that it is unaccompanied by petitions； or any vocal
or mental act。
These Ainos are as dark as the people of southern Spain； and very
hairy。 Their expression is earnest and pathetic； and when they
smiled； as they did when I could not pronounce their words； their
faces had a touching sweetness which was quite beautiful； and
European； not Asiatic。 Their own impression is that they are now
increasing in numbers after diminishing for many years。 I left Usu
sleeping in the loveliness of an autumn noon with great regret。 No
place that I have seen has fascinated me so much。
LETTER XL（Continued）
The Sea…shoreA 〃Hairy Aino〃A Horse FightThe Horses of Yezo
〃Bad Mountains〃A Slight AccidentMagnificent SceneryA Bleached
Halting…PlaceA Musty RoomAino 〃Good…breeding。〃
A charge of 3 sen per ri more for the horses for the next stage；
because there were such 〃bad mountains to cross；〃 prepared me for
what followedmany miles of the worst road for horses I ever saw。
I should not have complained if they had charged double the price。
As an almost certain consequence； it was one of the most
picturesque routes I have ever travelled。 For some distance；
however； it runs placidly along by the sea…shore； on which big；
blue； foam…crested rollers were disporting themselves noisily； and
passes through several Aino hamlets； and the Aino village of Abuta；
with sixty houses； rather a prosperous…looking place； where the
cultivation was considerably more careful； and the people possessed
a number of horses。 Several of the houses were surrounded by
bears' skulls grinning from between the forked tops of high poles；
and there was a well…grown bear ready for his doom and apotheosis。
In nearly all the houses a woman was weaving bark…cloth； with the
hook which holds the web fixed into the ground several feet outside
the house。 At a deep river called the Nopkobets； which emerges
from the mountains close to the sea； we were ferried by an Aino
completely covered with hair； which on his shoulders was wavy like
that of a retriever； and rendered clothing quite needless either
for covering or warmth。 A wavy； black beard rippled nearly to his
waist over his furry chest； and； with his black locks hanging in
masses over his shoulders； he would have looked a thorough savage
had it not been for the exceeding sweetness of his smile and eyes。
The Volcano Bay Ainos are far more hairy than the mountain Ainos；
but even among them it is quite common to see men not more so than
vigorous Europeans； and I think that the hairiness of the race as a
distinctive feature has been much exaggerated； partly by the
smooth…skinned Japanese。
The ferry scow was nearly upset by our four horses beginning to
fight。 At first one bit the shoulders of another； then the one
attacked uttered short； sharp squeals； and returned the attack by
striking with his fore feet； and then there was a general melee of
striking and biting； till some ugly wounds were inflicted。 I have
watched fights of this kind on a large scale every day in the
corral。 The miseries of the Yezo horses are the great drawback of
Yezo travelling。 They are brutally used； and are covered with
awful wounds from being driven at a fast 〃scramble〃 with the rude；
ungirthed pack…saddle and its heavy load rolling about on their
backs； and they are beaten unmercifully over their eyes and ears
with heavy sticks。 Ito has been barbarous to these gentle； little…
prized animals ever since we came to Yezo； he has vexed me more by
this than by anything else； especially as he never dared even to
carry a switch on the main island； either from fear of the horses
or their owners。 To…day he was beating the baggage horse
unmercifully； when I rode back and interfered with some very strong
language； saying； 〃You are a bully； and； like all bullies； a
coward。〃 Imagine my aggravation when； at our first halt； he
brought out his note…book； as usual； and quietly asked me the
meaning of the words 〃bully〃 and 〃coward。〃 It was perfectly
impossible to explain them； so I said a bully was the worst name I
could call him； and that a coward was the meanest thing a man could
be。 Then the provoking boy said； 〃Is bully a worse name than
devil？〃 〃Yes； far worse；〃 I said； on which he seemed rather
crestfallen； and he has not beaten his horse since； in my sight at
least
The breaking…in process is simply breaking the spirit by an hour or
two of such atrocious cruelty as I saw at Shiraoi； at the end of
which the horse； covered with foam and blood； and bleeding from
mouth and nose； falls down exhausted。 Being so ill used they have
all kinds of tricks； such as lying down in fords； throwing
themselves down head foremost and rolling over pack and rider；
bucking； and resisting attempts to make them go otherwise than in
single file。 Instead of bits they have bars of wood on each side
of the mouth； secured by a rope round the nose and chin。 When
horses which have been broken with bits gallop they put up their
heads till the nose is level with the ears； and it is useless to
try either to guide or check them。 They are always wanting to join
the great herds on the hillside or sea…shore； from which they are
only driven down as they are needed。 In every Yezo village the
first sound that one hears at break of day is the gallop of forty
or fifty horses； pursued by an Aino； who has hunted them from the
hills。 A horse is worth from twenty…eight shillings upwards。 They
are very sure…footed when their feet are not sore； and cross a
stream or chasm on a single rickety plank； or walk on a narrow
ledge above a river or gulch without fear。 They are barefooted；
their hoofs are very hard； and I am glad to be rid of the perpetual
tying and untying and replacing of the straw shoes of the well…
cared…for horses of the main island。 A man rides with them； and
for a man and three horses the charge is only sixpence for each 2。5
miles。 I am now making Ito ride in front of me； to make sure that
he does not beat or otherwise misuse his beast。
After crossing the Nopkobets； from which the fighting horses have
led me to make so long a digression； we went right up into the 〃bad
mountains；〃 and crossed the three tremendous passes of Lebungetoge。
Except by saying that this disused bridle…track is impassable；
people have scarcely exaggerated its difficulties。 One horse broke
down on the first pass； and we were long delayed by sending the
Aino back for another。 Possibly these extraordinary passes do not
exceed 1500 feet in height； but the track ascends them through a
dense forest with most extraordinary abruptness； to descend as
abruptly； to rise again sometimes by a series of nearly washed…away
zigzags； at others by a straight； ladder…like ascent deeply
channelled； the bottom of the trough being filled with rough
stones； large and small； or with ledges of rock with an entangled
mass of branches and trailers overhead； which render it necessary
to stoop over the horse's head while he is either fumbling；
stumbling； or tumbling among the stones in a gash a foot wide； or
else is awkwardly leaping up broken rock steps nearly the height of
his chest； the whole performance consisting of a series of
scrambling jerks at the rate of a mile an hour。
In one of the worst places the Aino's horse； which was just in
front of mine； in trying to scramble up a nearly breast…high and
much…worn ledge； fell backwards； nearly overturning my horse； the
stretcher poles； which formed part of his pack； striking me so hard
above my ankle that for some minutes afterwards I thought the bone
was broken。 The ankle was severely cut and bruised； and bled a
good deal； and I was knocked out of the saddle。 Ito's horse fell
three times； and eventually the four were roped together。 Such are
some of the divertissements of Yezo travel。
Ah； but it was glorious！ The views are most magnificent。 This is
really Paradise。 Everything is herehuge headlands magnificently
timbered； small； deep bays into which the great green waves roll
majestically； great； grey cliffs； too perpendicular for even the
most adventurous trailer to find root…hold； bold bluffs and
outlying stacks cedar…crested； glimpses of bright； blue ocean
dimpling in the sunshine or tossing up wreaths of foam among ferns
and trailers； and inland ranges of mountains forest…covered； with
tremendous gorges between； forest filled； where wolf； bear； and
deer make their nearly